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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | ? |
| Page Views: | 2,400 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Nov 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Despite a recent bolting controversy, this route makes for a great intro to aid climbing and starting aid solo.
Start in a chimney 40 feet right of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on The Kingfisher.
P1 - Follow a bolt ladder in the chimney to the saddle between The Kingfisher and The Dragon's Tail. Some C1 placements or free climbing will be required about 3/4 of the way up to the saddle. 100 feet, 5.6 C1. Word on the street is this pitch frees around 5.10+.
P2 - Walk northeast on the narrow ridge to the base of the southeast face and start clipping bolts (many stubs). Near the top, mandatory free mud climbing will be required before clipping 3 bolts to the top. 120 feet, 5.6 C0.
Rappel the route. Make sure your rope is 200 feet long as a single 60M rope barely reaches the saddle from the top. A 70M rope is recommended.
Rap 1 (2 bolts) - 100 feet
Rap 2 (2 bolts) - 95 feet
Start in a chimney 40 feet right of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on The Kingfisher.
P1 - Follow a bolt ladder in the chimney to the saddle between The Kingfisher and The Dragon's Tail. Some C1 placements or free climbing will be required about 3/4 of the way up to the saddle. 100 feet, 5.6 C1. Word on the street is this pitch frees around 5.10+.
P2 - Walk northeast on the narrow ridge to the base of the southeast face and start clipping bolts (many stubs). Near the top, mandatory free mud climbing will be required before clipping 3 bolts to the top. 120 feet, 5.6 C0.
Rappel the route. Make sure your rope is 200 feet long as a single 60M rope barely reaches the saddle from the top. A 70M rope is recommended.
Rap 1 (2 bolts) - 100 feet
Rap 2 (2 bolts) - 95 feet
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