This shoe excels on steep routes but also have the precision for hard bouldering. I found that i had to size a half size up (usually a 10 in Evolv but 10.5 in Nexxo). Since these shoes so aggressive but have such a stiff mid-sole you can continue to feel the power through long over hangs. This shoe is way stiffer then something like the Teams. The Nexxo is also surprisingly sensitive and the love bump makes sure your toes are in a comfy position. The Heal cup is slightly lower volume then the Shaman which works well for me. The one suggestion I would say is that there needs to be more rubber on the top for better toe hooking but this has not hindered me too much. I have mainly used my Nexxo's for sport climbing at Rumney, NH and the Red river Gorge, KY. I would very much recommend these shoes!
I have a pair that I've been wearing on and off for a few months. My impressions:
WAYY lower volume than the Shaman or Geshido. Street size 12, and 12 in the latter two shoes. A 12 Nexxo is almost unbearable.
Incredibly cambered and downturned; on steep (40 or so and more degrees overhung) they're fine, but standing on them on anything less than that is painful.
The heel is pretty low volume; if a lot of other shoes are baggy for you, then this should fit really well. If you have a fat heel then these will probably be even more painful.
I feel like the sole should be thinner for this style of shoe (3.5 mm or so).
In my opinion this is Evolvs best and most advanced shoe. It marks a big leap in technology for them and it shows.
I bought this shoe specifically for the Red River Gorge. I climb primarily at Smith Rock and did not expect them to work there very well. Once day i decided to break them in at Smith. What a surprise. These shoes work so ridiculously well on anything except vertical or under. If the rock over hangs at all i found i could smear, and stand on anything. Grains of sand, slippery little depressions. These shoes gave me more confidence in my feet than ever before.
I wear a size 8.5 street shoe and a size 8 Nexxo. They are snug but not at all uncomfortable.
My evolv sizing is 8.5 Shaman, 8 Nexxo, 7.5 Pontas
Full Disclosure. I am an Evolv Athlete. That doesnt change the fact I really enjoy the shoes.
Picked these up on clearance and boy am i pleased! Haven't even considered the other performance shoes in the closet. I found that they are very similar in design to the teams but with a much stiffer sole. Psyched!
edit to add I wear these in mt street shoe size. Typically down size 1.5+ on my scarpas and 5.10s
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