Please help with Red Rock tick list

Hello All

I'm just putting together a ticklist for a visit to Red Rock(s) in a couple of weeks. What I'd like help with is trying to put routes in order of overall effort ie including length, difficulty, strenuousness and sustainedness of the climbing, and also length and difficulty of approach and descent.
(I don't need to take too much account of protectedness, as I have a rope gun for the hard bits!)

I'm fairly crap at walk off descents, always prefer to rappel when possible, so anything with a long walk off is hard in my book! Also, I find face climbing easier than cracks.

Bearing that in mind, could anyone comment on my list, which I've tried to put in what I think might be order of overall effort.
(There are only a couple of routes on the list I've previosly done, so the rest is guesswork based on available info)

Black Dagger
Myster Z and Armatron
Crimson Chrysalis
Ginger Cracks
Black Orpheus
Prince of Darkness
Rainbow Buttress
Epinephrine
Inti Watana
Eagle Dance

Any thoughts on relative gnarliness of these (and maybe other classics of similar grade) much appreciated

If you hate walk-offs, Red Rocks is a bad place to go.

Rainbow Buttress and Eagle Dance have big approaches and descents. Maybe not your cup of tea.

Consider Frigid Air Buttress, although there is a pitch of wide hands jamming. Y2K has a lot of facey moves and the kind of approaching/deproaching you require. Routes on the Brass Wall area might be good for you as well although they are not as long.

Sorry, should have been clearer.

I do hate walk offs, but I love the long routes at RR so I'm willing to do them.
(I've been several times, so I sort of know what I'm in for. Done things like Criimson Chrysalis and Prince of Darkness, but failed once to make it up to the Eagle Wall. I think I might have got about half way...)

I'll certainly look at Frigid Air Buttress and Y2K though.
I want to build up gradually to the gnarley stuff.

"approaching/deproaching" I like that...

Inti Watana is one of the harder approaches and descents (from the base) on your list, and might not be your cup of tea either.

Ah, OK

(Rappel descent attracted me, and it was the only route on the mountain that looked like it might be at all approachable.)

How does it compare with Eagle Dance approach / descent?
Is it harder to find?

You hate long approaches and descents, had to bail halfway to the eagle wall, but 7 of the 10 climbs on your list are some of the longest approaches/descents in Red Rock? I don't get it?

Not trying to be a dick, but have you thought about taking up bowling?

Black Orpheus wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Not too much further then the lower Solar Slab area, then ditch the pacs, rack up and ascend the ramps. Maybe 2 hours?

How about you check out Black Velvet Canyon? 1 hour tops to Black Velvet Wall (if you don't know it that well) lots of good long routes, lots of rappel descents.

Angel Food Wall is 40ish minutes, Lotta Balls wall is fun, 40 minutes in, link a couple climbs and have a super fun day.

Frigid Air is awesome. Climb Community Pillar and then tell me if I should, lol.

Community Pillar is fun.

In order of what I would say is "overall effort" (and really more based on how long the day was car to car for me... I left off routes I haven't climbed):

Prince of Darkness
Crimson Chrysalis
Ginger Cracks
Black Orpheus
Epinephrine
Inti Watana
Eagle Dance
Rainbow Buttress

If you're there in "a couple weeks" like you said, you're gonna want to take into consideration what's in the sun and what's in the shade. Crimson and Ginger Cracks get lots of shade... Prince, Epi, and Inti go into the shade in the afternoon... Black O and Eagle Dance to the best of my recollection get sun most of the day. Can't really remember Rainbow Buttress's sun aspect, I climbed that one a long long time ago. I also might be mis-remembering what a burly day it was.

Sounds like you might want to look into more Black Velvet Wall routes if you are climbing low 5.10s and don't like walkoffs... Dream of Wild Turkeys and Sour Mash are both pretty sweet.

Thanks brat, that's what I was looking for so I can work up gradually.
Might give Rainbow Buttress a miss! Start with Ginger Cracks and see how I go.

Yes, I'll probably do more stuff in Black Velvet, but already done Wild Turkeys / Yellow Brick road / Gobbler, and pretty much everything in Lotta Balls Area too.

I liked Ginger Cracks. I didn't like it as much as Crimson (as many others claim to) but I did like the descent way better. Even with all the death blocks. And yeah, check out Black Velvet Wall. Or Whiskey Peak.

mortarmonster wrote:Thanks brat, that's what I was looking for so I can work up gradually. Might give Rainbow Buttress a miss! Start with Ginger Cracks and see how I go. Yes, I'll probably do more stuff in Black Velvet, but already done Wild Turkeys / Yellow Brick road / Gobbler, and pretty much everything in Lotta Balls Area too.