Rattlesnake Errands
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 17 votes
Type: | Sport, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Elmar and Lisa Stefke, Oct 2014 |
Page Views: | 2,173 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | old5ten on Oct 26, 2014 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Just up the hill from the slab that has 'Digi' but before 'Racing Lizards' is a prominent, 20-30' wide buttress that is flanked by 3rd/4th class gullies on both sides.
'Rattlesnake Errands' takes 2 pitches of slab climbing up the center of the buttress.
P1 - there are three distinct starting variations (see topo pic):
1.) Original (main) start (10a) - after the first bolt continue straight up the slab to the second bolt.
2.) Right start (easy 5th after the initial moves to the first bolt) - after clipping the first bolt continue right and up via big holds in the trough.
3.) Left start (5.8) - after clipping the second bolt move out left to a horn, then go up and right toward the 3rd bolt.
After passing the 3rd bolt go up the slab to the right of the crack past 2 more bolts. Cross the crack (optional sm. TCU/Alien), then go left and up via 3 more bolts (5.9) to the P1 anchor.
P2 - from the P1 anchor go slightly left, then up to a bolt. Continue toward a small orange patch (finger pocket), then go up past a short steeper section (10a) and 3 bolts to a great in-cut rail/stance and horn. Continue slightly right and up to the level of the next bolt, then go left out on the face to a black knob. Follow the slab (5.10b) past four more bolts to an orange colored protrusion. Easier ground past one more bolt leads to the P2 anchor.
This route is similar in character to 'Silver Streak' - technically maybe a tad easier, but much more sustained on the 2nd pitch.
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