Rumney's Spring Sends (Conditions Updates - Lost & Found)

Rumney Climbers,

Is any one interested in climbing around Rumney/Blackjacks/The Pound for a little Winter sport climbing or bouldering? I live about half a mile away and am really psyched to climb any time, but can't seem to find anyone that will bear the cold with me. I am a safe belay and spot, and I will belay or spot you on anything, I just need to climb rocks. I guess I'm looking to start ticking off some 12s and opening projects early this year.

Thanks!

-EDIT 4/24/2014: I've been finding a lot of stuff at the crag so this is also the lost and found.

How are the conditions in the boulders lately, snow and ice wise?

Based on the last storm we had, there is quite a bit of ice on a lot of the boulders, though it may have melted. I can definitely give you a better conditions report tomorrow.

Get the brooms and brushes out and dont forget the blow torches ;-P

Sounds tempting! Will keep you in mind.

I would be down in like a month. Studying for a big exam right now. Unfortunately, I live all the way in Portland, so when I go to Rumney I like to climb dawn to dusk if possible to make it worth it. I have a huge to-do list at Rumney, so I'm totally psyched.

Morgan Patterson wrote:Get the brooms and brushes out and dont forget the blow torches ;-P

i realize the "blow torch" thing is a joke, but just in case it's not…

high heat, small holds, schist, maybe not a good idea….

if you're good (or lucky) at it, it's not a problem!

if you're not, it's a bummer…

i can't remember the details of the whole story but it involved a famous bouldering guidebook author, a blow torch, satan on a half shell, and a very shattered hold…

if you do it right and it work: great!

if you do it wrong and it doesn't: you f' it up for everyone else.

always ask yourself, am i doing this right?

iBolt

I'm 5 miles from the crag with my fiancé. We just went out today for a bit. It was cold and my fingers went numb but it was a fun time. PM me and maybe we can get out sometime.

iBolt wrote: i realize the "blow torch" thing is a joke, but just in case it's not… high heat, small holds, schist, maybe not a good idea…. if you're good (or lucky) at it, it's not a problem! if you're not, it's a bummer… i can't remember the details of the whole story but it involved a famous bouldering guidebook author, a blow torch, satan on a half shell, and a very shattered hold… if you do it right and it work: great! if you do it wrong and it doesn't: you f' it up for everyone else. always ask yourself, am i doing this right? iBolt

u spent too much time on a joke...

Hey Guys, Conditions update:

From the looks of it the rocks are mostly dry, but the tops of the boulders are still mostly ice coated. I'll be going out tomorrow to clip some bolts, and will provide another update for whatever specific crags I go to. At least right now things are looking pretty climbable.

Hey Eli, Have you been out there since the storm? Im thinking of heading out next week to clean some top outs and some landings. If you get out there before me let me know what you think!

I haven't been out since tha stawm, but It looks like you're going to have to do a good amount of cleaning to get on anything bouldery. There is bound to be dry rock up on the cliffs though. Last time I went out I hopped on Smoke and Mirrors, and checked out Whale's Tail (I think?). Those were pretty much the only non-iced problems at that point, and the Pound Crack also looked doable (dry enough). All that is pre-storm though. We didn't get hit quite so badly up here.

Thanks for the update, I agree it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. I figured if we keep the tops shoveled pretty well when the melt time comes around it should make climbing happen sooner.

I should probably get out of the house and grab my shovel. That is a super good idea. It's snowing up here now though.

Yeah, get out there and shovel off the tops of my projects, please :) But don't send them!

Now taking requests, provided yall give me beta when spring rolls around.

Eli Buzzell wrote:I should probably get out of the house and grab my shovel. That is a super good idea. It's snowing up here now though.

na man, you should really just save up and move to CA or some place where there isn't snow covering the climbs. props for your stoke, if it wasn't a couple hour drive i'd probably join you - i just can't justify the trip from MA.

I am heartened to read of your pursuits in Rumney in colder than comfortable conditions. This only makes my own resolve to climb in whatever temperature the weekend has to offer all the greater.

Stich wrote:I am heartened to read of your pursuits in Rumney in colder than comfortable conditions. This only makes my own resolve to climb in whatever temperature the weekend has to offer all the greater.

Agreed.

I appreciate it, I'm going to head out there today to check out some ice climbing people. It's a bit cold for bolts.

Anyone interested in going out any time soon? I realize it has gotten really cold lately, but provided it warms up I'd like to get out and go climbing.