Where to climb between SF and Mendocino!

Any great spots to climb between San Fransisco and Mendocino? I ask because I really don't know cali at all so some help narrowing it down would be great. Sport is ideal so I don't have to lug my rack but if there is great trad I will bring it. Bouldering is fine if nothing else or if very close to Mendocino.

thanks!
John

Sorry, man, but there isn't much worth speaking of. Definitely don't bring a rack if you're restricted to that area. There are scattered sport climbs at various locations, like Mount Diablo. And there's some bouldering...SuperTopo has a Bay Area Bouldering guidebook. But certainly no destination areas. You'll likely find better climbing at one of the Bay Area gyms.

If you click on "SF Bay Area" here in MountainProject, you can use the map feature to see what's available.

I went to a cool crag along the ocean near Jenner a few years ago, it's called the Sea Crag. The climbing wasn't that great but it was one of the more memorable crags I've ever been too.
There is sport climbing at Mt. St Helena near Calistoga which looks like it's about 2 hours driving time.

Try to get a copy of Wine Country Rocks by Chris Summit. It's probably the best guide to that region available. It's a small "book" but covers a fair amount of the climbing between Napa and Ft. Bragg. I think the rock gym in Santa Rosa sells copies of it.

According to Wine Country Rocks, the closest crags to you are along the Eel River along Hwy 162 (North of Willits, CA) a little over an hour away. Bouldering and TRing. Looks like a cool spot.

Salt Point State Park in Sonoma has some great seaside sandstone climbing. It's mostly sport climbing, although there's bouldering too. I went by the main parking spot/access point for it recently though and it appears budget shortages have conspired Fisk Mill Cove so I don't know if you can just walk in or what.

if it is cool out, go to St. Helena for sport climbing.

if it is hot out, drive up the coast and check out Mickey's Beach, Sea Crag and Salt Point for sport climbing. a little tiny bit of trad climbing at sea crag but I wouldn't drag the gear out just for that.

lots of great bouldering along the sonoma coast (Stinson/Sunset Rocks/Salt Point)and a little in Mendocino (Navarro Beach). Also lots of good river bouldering with some roped climbs on the Eel River

"You'll likely find better climbing at one of the Bay Area gyms." - I just can't accept this as a valid suggestion. sorry. Unless it is raining, go outside.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I haven't taken a day off since April so even mediocre climbing will be great!

I just think that mediocre climbing is kind of a waste of time when there are so many other spectacular things to do in that region.

Tom Fralich wrote:I just think that mediocre climbing is kind of a waste of time when there are so many other spectacular things to do in that region.

maybe mediocre compared to Yosemite. You're just spoiled Tom. :)

great mountain biking, road biking, surfing, tidepooling, breweries, windsurfing at Bodega.

but...this is a climbing site.

John- if you haven't seen the sonoma coast, just go there. lot's to do including climbing.

ha ha ha lol. this is hilarious. Tom dude has a big open mouth but a closed little mind. "better climbing in a gym" ha!! so chris sharma, kevin jorgeson, giovanni and carlo traversi, jim thornburg, scott frye etc.. all were totally wrong to have done many climbs in the area and some of them to even say that some of the climbs on the pacific coast in that area are some of the best quality in the world?? lol tom you are the epitome of an online fool :) this is a great example why you should maybe trust a guidebook like mine (yes drunkenmaster = chris summit) and not always a free site like this with dipshit opinions.

drunkenmaster wrote:ha ha ha lol. this is hilarious. Tom dude has a big open mouth but a closed little mind. "better climbing in a gym" ha!! so chris sharma, kevin jorgeson, giovanni and carlo traversi, jim thornburg, scott frye etc.. all were totally wrong to have done many climbs in the area and some of them to even say that some of the climbs on the pacific coast in that area are some of the best quality in the world?? lol tom you are the epitome of an online fool :) this is a great example why you should maybe trust a guidebook like mine (yes drunkenmaster = chris summit) and not always a free site like this with dipshit opinions.

yes i did frank do you have a problem with that?

damn right i will get angry when someone goes out of their way to write on this website that basicly it would be better to go to a gym then to climb on the rocks that i love. better to pay the same amount for a weekend at a gym then for my guidebooks. they are basicly dissing my lifes work and so are you for showing no respect. you read my name/names. who the hell are you frankps? what have you done for the climbing community?? why did i make you so upset justifiably speaking my mind that you had to talk smack to me?? it is my job to research climbing between sf and mendo thats why i was looking at this post. why did you need to reply to it? myself and many many others have spent our lives finding and creating and protecting and cherishing the climbs between sf and mendo so to hear anyone talk crap about them will not ever go over well with me. kapeesh??? instead of starting an online fight with me rather come up to my local rocks between sf and mendo and try to fight some of the testpieces i put up :) then see if i am right or wrong and go to the gym if you dont agree.

heres a lot of free info for climbing and bouldering between sf and mendo:

a lot of info for these counties: marin, sonoma, mendo, napa, lake as well a lot for South Lake Tahoe and a few random spots around the Sierras and all around Northern California.

summitorplummet.blogspot.com/