(11) A Comedy of Scarers
You & This Route
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BETA PHOTO: Joaquin jammin' away
1. Jam crack, then stem past rotten section to base of chimney and belay off gear. (5.10b) We used a #6 friend to protect the rotten section—probably not absolutely necessary, but other gear might not be that good. (The chimney can be climbed (5.6) as a direct ending within the 1st pitch.)
2. Angle left to dihedral, up and out roof to large ledge. 2 bolts on face finish up to 2-bolt belay/rap station. (5.9+) If you have too much drag, you can belay on ledge and finish face as a quick 3rd pitch.
If not for the 15’ of nasty rock, this would be a classic. Strenuous hand/fist jamming leads to a clean layback, then underclinging out a roof.
Further along the east face from “Stembrosia,” scramble down a short bulge and around the corner to the NE corner of the formation. 2 cracks head up to a chimney. A large roof can be seen to the left of the chimney. Start in the right crack.
Rap route with double ropes (50 M's OK)
If you scramble up to ledge past anchors, a quick belay back to anchors would be prudent
Include double cams to 3.5, toss a 4.0 on, too.
BETA PHOTO: Starts in R crack, finishes on skyline above left-...