Any recommendations? Looking for a quality 10a route that gets shade in early afternoon and later to climb this week when it's as hot as haides. Is handcracker in the sun at that time?

The upper pitches of Handcracker (the crux pitch) will be roasting, it is south facing with no shade, if I recall correctly.

At 10b, you could do Outer Space on the north face of the Bastille.

Peanuts (5.9) on Lower Peanuts should also be in the shade all day.

The dihedral portions of Outer Space will be in the shade in the late afternoo. Metamorphis and anything on the south face of the Wind Tower. Darkness to Dawn stays in the shade most of the day.

Has anyone climbed DtD recently? How's the bird shit with the heat?

If you wanna bump up the number, just a little, Blackwalk and Backtalk are shady pretty early these days. Both are just a tad spicy. An unappreciated little gem is way over to the right, just before the gully of Hawkeagle Ridge,East Overhang, short, but intense at the grade-10+. Weevil's Walk on the West Ridge might get shady early, it's another climb that doesn't get enough love. Upper pitches of March of Dimes get lots of coolness these days.

Saw someone else mention S Face of Wind Tower,Lower Triagonal is a fun, short crack, always called 9+; it feels pretty stout.

The sun's path can be deceiving if you don't follow it year round. Right now it rises in the "extreme" north east and set in the "extreme" north west. This means south facing routes stay well shaded till late morning and go back into the shade by 3 or so such as South face of Wind Tower and C'est La Vie area. But, these rocks will gain a lot of heat and re radiate this heat even when shaded. I was sweating my ass off last year in the shade on Metamorphasis despite the shade but was shivering on C'est La Vie only a few weeks ago because of high winds.

North facing routes will get sun from sunrise till mid morning and again late in the day such as the north face of the Bastille. So Outer Space and March of Dimes will be good till about 3 ish. Peanuts wall is north west generally. So it stays completely shaded till about 2:30. Then gets lots of sun. West ridge stays well shaded till noon or one, then gets blasted till late afternoon.

The other day we got on Green Slab around noon. The sun hit us around 1, but some clouds rolled in keeping it pleasant. Then, we climbed Darkness till Dawn which stay well shaded till about 4, then gets cooked.

Clouds and wind can make even the hottest spot pleasent in Eldo. Don't tell anybody.

recommending blackwalk or blacktalk on a hot, sweaty, greasy day is borderline attempted homicide. march of dimes is a decent recommendation though, although you have to choose between a crappy down climb/bushwhack, or an extra pitch or 2 of munge.

greg D's post is spot on, regarding the path of the sun. with eldo's dark rock soaking up heat all day, it's kind of tough to find a comfortable place to climb in the afternoon. for late afternoon, the c'est la vie area has a few 9's that are are decent. on the bastille you have outer space and march of dimes. i wouldn't recommend metamorphasis if it is hot out. darkness til dawn might be feasible if the sun isn't high enough to peek over the ridge to the northwest.

Climbed Darkness till Dawn in April. The rock was clean and did not have any unsavory bird feces on it. The most lasting impression I had of the route: I wish I had brought more gear - hand sizes and up to #4.

5.9 / 5.10 routes:
Werk Sup
Blind Faith before 1300ish

Anything early in the morning. You want it? Get after it.
Try being the first one to the park, you'll appreciate the experience.

Jonathan

i think the next time somebody asks for a good 11 to do on a sweaty,summer afternoon (when a decent rain hasn't washed the holds in a while) i'm going to recommend jules verne, or maybe lene's dream, or maybe something else a tad spicy....