Questions about Potero Chico

So it's official, I'm headed to Potero. Really excited. Just have a few questions for any with experience there.

I have three days I can set aside for climbing, so I figure 1 long route a day. I'm pretty set on two routes:

Time wave zero
mountainproject.com/v/time-…
This is my main objective and if I were to only climb one route (God forbid) this is it. I plan on making bold and difficult flash so any helpful beta about this route would be sweet.

Another route I'm eyeing is Space Boyz:
mountainproject.com/v/space…
Just seems like a well rated route on a different mountain so seems cool enough to me.

I'm open to other route ideas. The longer, the more senic, the better. However, if there is some must climb shorter routes I'm up for that as well.

I plan on bringing a burly (I hear it's sharp out there) 70m rope to link pitches and 20 draws. Will that be enough for most routes?

A few other questions:
Would it be worth it to bring a tag line?

What's the prefered guide book for Potero Chico ?

Anybody have experience with the weather in March ?

Any helpful advise is appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

A couple of other routes I'd recommend considering are Yankee Clipper and Satori. Satori is shorter than the ones you've listed (7 pitches without linking?), but of the routes I did there, it was my favorite.

Didn't climb TWZ - it was always crazy crowded when I was there.

20 draws should be plenty. Even linking pitches, that's probably enough. Maybe 2-4 more. A tag line would make the raps much less of a headache. Especially on the longer routes, it feels like you're rapping forever, so I feel like it's worth the extra weight.

The Whole Enchilada was the book I used and it worked fine. Not sure about the others, though. Also not sure about the weather. Bring sunscreen.

Have a great time. That place is magical!

Tanner

(PS It may go without saying, but a helmet is a must-have there).

A good day I would suggest. Supernova (be first), 8 pitches. Some cool 1 pitch climbs at the top if you want to make a long day of it. You can make it back to the road before lunch. Then go over to Los Lobos and get on Wolf Will Survive.

Spaceboys is great, but busy, bring a brain bucket. All day as you'll hit traffic on your way down.

I hear good things about snot girls.

Snott Girlz and Pancho Villa Rides Again are 5.10+ bolted crack climbing that I would highly recommend. If you could do both in a day (twelve pitches), you would be happy.

Estrellita isn't super sustained (5.11a), but is just plain fun climbing that follows the ridgeline up and its twelve pitches probably qualify for length.

El Sendero Diablo (The Devil's Path - 5.11c) is only six pitches but has some excellent climbing.

With all these, you can easily supplement length by tackling nearby routes. Some of the classics I thought were overrated as far as quality, Yankee Clipper notable to me in that regard. Certainly, still fun, and I just found the climbs that followed more defined features than simply carving a swath out of the foliage to be more interesting.

20-24 draws should do you if you are linking pitches. One 70 meter rope will generally get you down. I don't recall ever using two ropes.

Pass on both Supernova and Yankee Clipper. None of the pitches are memorable, I assure you. I have done both.

Emphatic yes on Snot Girlz. I've done it twice. Black Cat Bone is also interesting. Any of the Spires routes is fun for good measure.

I took a few beta photos of the crux pitch since I couldn't find any online before I went. I'll see if I can find them up and post them.

Double ropes and/or taglines are more trouble than they are worth.
There are just too many flakes and cacti. The more rope the more hangups.
70 meters is great to have and up to 24 draws to link pitches.

rocknice2 wrote:Double ropes and/or taglines are more trouble than they are worth. There are just too many flakes and cacti. The more rope the more hangups. 70 meters is great to have and up to 24 draws to link pitches.

This for sure, don't bother trying to do more than one rap at a time. Would definitely recommend getting acclimated to the climbing before attempting time wave. Satori is one of my favorite climbs, snot girls, estralita, and space boyz are all good. Space boyz goes up the same mountain as time wave fyi. Estralita is a good option on the other side of the canyon for a good view of el toro. Simul-rapping can speed up rapping if you have a partner you trust and gri-gris. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR RAP ROPES AND TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING ON YOUR RAPPELS!

I'll echo the not bothering with a tag line. The only time we had trouble on rappel at epc was when we linked two 70 meter ropes. So many flakes/cacti/shark things, I think we got a rope stuck on every rappel of yankee clipper.

Supernova which has been mentioned as a must do and a don't do is a very long approach, one great 5.11 pitch, and then 7 pitches of very easy climbing. If you want a morning wake-up, then it's fun to do before lunch, eat lunch on the ledge, and then get down into the canyon to climb some other stuff.

Will The Wolf Survive is only 3 pitches, but one of the best things I climbed while I was there. We combined that climb with a handful of single pitch and 2-pitch climbs on the wave and mota wall. I think we even grabbed a spire that day on the way out of the park.

Yankee clipper I thought was great, but there are better routes.

Estrellita I thought was a blast. Loose rock, but be mindful and you'll be fine. It also only has 4 rappels, unlike most at EPC where you rap straight down the route you went up.

bring lots of sunscreen and carry in more water than you think you'll need. The weather went from overcast and drizzly to scorching sun while we were on yankee clipper.

Thanks a bunch for the tips everybody.
Ok so the list of routes is now:
1. Time wave zero
2. Estrellita
I like that the first two are across from each other. I would really like to maximize the views and exploration with my limit time.

3. Still debating on El Sendero Diablo or combining Snott Girlz and Pancho Villa Rides Again as recommended. Also satori sounds cool. Anyone done all of them and have an opinion on them?

I figure if I have time enough time towards the end of each day I'll jump on some shorter stuff. The spires seem cool. Maybe check them out. The wolf will survive Is up there. Any shorter must climb filler routes out there?

24 draws, single 70m, helmet, sunscreen, check.

Have done all those mentioned except for sendero, you honestly really can't go wrong with those suggestions. Satori might be better saved for another trip sense you are short on climbing days, the approach is rather long which made it a good climb to do during peak season, we were the only people on it during one of the busiest days all year. I don't believe it will be crowded while you are there so you might as well get On the classics with shorter approaches. Snot girls has a 2 min approach and you can easily combine it with another multi-pitch such as cactus pile or half day of cragging at mota wall if you are efficient enough. If you are efficient and start early you can do Estralita and then climb will the wolf survive directly after, the rap line for estralita will put you directly next to it and you avoid having to do the slippery approach.

Be careful on the estralita rappels, we got our rope stuck pulling it over the ledge. Also the spray paint arrows are mostly rubbed off.

If you have only 3 days, Sendero Diablo is a good option. It is fun, has an easy approach, and is not too long of a route. Also, the rappel spits you at the base of Fit For Life and Celestial Omnibus. Both of those routes are 2 pitches, excellent, and share the first 11a pitch, so you can do the first pitch, and then tick off both routes from the cave belay.

DrRockso wrote: If you are efficient and start early you can do Estralita and then climb will the wolf survive directly after, the rap line for estralita will put you directly next to it and you avoid having to do the slippery approach.

I went to potrero last year, climbed and loved both of these routes, and until this very moment didn't even think of doing this. I absolutely will be doing estrellita/will the wolf survive as my day 1.

Also to op:

I'll be in potrero for the second half of march. We booked three rooms at posada, so if you are planning on staying there (and not camping) it's probably worth reserving now.

SYK, Wolf Will Survive is a good low traffic, half day, alternative to Estrellita. It gets you a similar view up top.

I think Estrellita has the greatest chance for you to get stuck behind a pack of Noobs, so alpine start is recommended. The advantage is, you rap off the back side, so no traffic to navigate getting down.

I would go so far as to suggest you put down Wolf on the same day, before hiking out of Los Lobos. Not the worst approach, but worth avoiding if you can.

One other thing. If you like to simuclimb, 25+ draws can be helpful.

Craig Childre wrote:If you like to simuclimb, 25+ draws can be helpful.

The crazy thing about the extended climbing you get at EPC is you get into the zone pretty hard. I found myself on several routes unintentionally going into the simul climb and linking three pitches. I'd look down and realize I've skipped an anchor and every other bolt and think, huh, I've probably been climbing for more than 70m. Sure enough.... This was on both Estrellita and Supernova, but those climbs mellow out a lot.

Don Ferris wrote:Thanks a bunch for the tips everybody. Ok so the list of routes is now: 1. Time wave zero 2. Estrellita I like that the first two are across from each other. I would really like to maximize the views and exploration with my limit time. 3. Still debating on El Sendero Diablo or combining Snott Girlz and Pancho Villa Rides Again as recommended. Also satori sounds cool. Anyone done all of them and have an opinion on them? I figure if I have time enough time towards the end of each day I'll jump on some shorter stuff. The spires seem cool. Maybe check them out. The wolf will survive Is up there. Any shorter must climb filler routes out there? 24 draws, single 70m, helmet, sunscreen, check.

Unfortunately, I didn't get TWZ, but you'll definitely have a blast on any of the others. The crowds can be an issue, so having backup routes won't steer you wrong either.

Thanks for all the info guys.

Looks like TWZ day one. Maybe a spire route if there is time that day. Any other short linkups that would be compatible with TWZ?

Day two will consist of Estrellita followed by Will the Wolf survive. Great tip by the way. I'll look for some short approach climbs to fill any left over time I have.

Day three is still up in the air. Swing me. I think Diablo is winning.

Thanks again for all the help. Super helpful.

I would be impressed if you wanted to keep climbing after rappelling 23 pitches, but if you want to, the spires are on the way out. DON'T do crack test dummies. Easily the worst route I climbed at potrero.

I thought it was fun!

Blacksmith is a fun 2 pitch on the way down from Will the Wolf Survive. Don't get too caught up with sticking to an exact schedule, have an idea of what you want to do and play it by ear. Depending on your speed and other parties on the routes, you may get slowed down a bit. Make sure the weather is going to be good on the day you want to do time wave and don't forget to bring headlamps, even if you THINK you will be down before dark.

Call me soft, but when I finished TWZ the only route I was interested in doing was the one that led me to the pool at Posadas with the variation that stopped by the bar first. If you are feeling motivated though, and since they are at the base of TWZ, for what it's worth I thought Getting Wood and Pangea were both enjoyable routes on the Spires. Time Wave is a blast, bring plenty of water and start early!