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Climbing Level

Original Post
Nathan Williams · · Seneca, SC · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 15

I am a 14 year old climber that has been climbing on-again-off-again for about 2 years. I have never done any climbing-specific traning and I climb no more than once a month, yet I cilmb at a 5.11b (leading sport outdoors) level. I would love to know what level you guys think I could climb at if I trained and/or climbed more.Also, if I were to Start training what do you guys recomend for training? Thanks!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Nathan,

No one can predict what grade you could climb, but it almost certainly would be more than you are doing now.

Are you climbing 11b outdoors or at a gym? Welcome to Mountain Project.

Joshua Jones · · San Tan Valley, az · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

5.11b (sport) in the gym on top rope... You could probably climbe 5.9 (sport) in the gym lead... or 5.10a (sport) outside on TR... or 5.8 (sport) outside on lead... or 5.7 (TRAD) outside but you might poop yourself... Just Joking.

There are so many factors that determine how a person climbs, it is impossible to predict their ability to climb a certain grade. There is a big difference between all of the above types of climbing. TR is nothing like lead and a gym is nothing like outside.

Sport, Trad, Gym, Outside, Bouldering, TR, Leading, Following, Aid, Rock quality, Rock Type, Face climbing, Juggy, Crimpy, overhung, Offwidth, and many other descriptive factors influence how a climb goes for an individual.

Don't focus on the grade you are climbing but on the climbing itself and you will enjoy the experience more. If you want to climb better, climb more. When you discover a weakness focus on that. Want to feel weak and climb well below your normal grade, go climb something offwidth.

Most importantly enjoy the climbing, learn from someone who knows and be safe.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Nathan,

First, ignore the sarcastic banter you may get here. Most mean it as a sense of humor so let it be "water off a duck's back."

11b is already pretty impressive, assuming it's outdoors. If it's a gym, I'd highly recommend getting on some 8s and 9s outside and gauge your ability there. In my experience, there is a giant discrepancy in not only ratings, but moves and style as well. Find what you like and what you need to work on.

Based on other things I have read, training for you should really be at the technique acquisition level. It can be dangerous to your development to get on a hangboard with lots of weight added (I'd suggest lots of weight removed if you have to hangboard) and stay away from the campus board. "Getting stronger" is a process that takes years to do safely to avoid injury. Be patient.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

14 and you can lead 11b outside only climbing once a month. I'd say your potential is in the 15c-d range with heavy training.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

If we don't understand sarcasm, what is the point of life?
That said, and not be be a snarf, i think there is a direct relationship to the amount we focus on climbing and the benefits (grade gain is one of many) we enjoy. I know in my life on rock that there are always gains to be made, things to learn, and a (seemingly) direct relationship between time spent and growth. Keep a journal and see if you see a difference! If you get a chance, spend a block of time focused on climbing. It is amazing the growth one can see even in a couple of weeks just climbing hard. And enjoy it!

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

You guys are trying to give him a hard time about 11b indoors, yet he clearly stated "leading sport outdoors". I vote for sarcasm which is obvious when typing (which may be none) and reading completely.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Hiro wrote:You guys are trying to give him a hard time about 11b indoors, yet he clearly stated "leading sport outdoors". I vote for sarcasm which is obvious when typing (which may be none) and reading completely.
I'm quite sure he edited his post and added the parenthetical comment. As I recall, it wasn't there when he first posted.
Nathan Williams · · Seneca, SC · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 15

Just to clarify guys, I did edit my post later, adding the parenthetical comment. However, I did not change it from saying anything about a gym. I live 90 minutes from the closest gym so all of my experience is and always has been outdoors.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Nathan,

If what you've said is true, I can't begin to imagine the potential of what you could do if you trained or at least climbed regularly. If you're 14 now, you have the opportunity to mold your body more than most climbers, because you are still growing. My question is, do you want to dedicate yourself to climbing hard or do you just want to have fun. I can't imagine going more than 2 weeks without climbing, but you only climb once a month? Why is that?

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

If you hit the weights for 3 months you will be running faster, throwing farther, and hitting harder than Ondra. Your potential? I don't know you from Adam, but 5.16c/d.

rogerbenton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 210

spray

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

You need to get out on the rock more. I'm kinda the same way you are, I've never done specific training for climbing, I just climb. I'm 17 and climbing 5.13 and projecting 5.14. I'm just now setting up a campus board and hangboard to work on. After you hit a certain range you will want to do climbing specific workouts. However, if you can hit the crag 2-3 times a month I believe you could easily do 5.12 in a couple months and work through those to 5.13s.

Chris Hills · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsZQH…

Don't be a sport climber!
Flame on!
Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

I feel like Index dares you come to lead .11b.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

I am a 62 year old climber that has been climbing on-again-off-again for about 42 years. I have never done any climbing-specific traning and I climb no more than once a month and stop for the winter, yet I cilmb at a 5.12a (leading sport outdoors) level. I would love to know what level you guys think I could climb at if I trained and/or climbed more,stopped smoking and drinking.Also, if I were to Start learning to spell what do you guys recomend? Thanks!

Wade J. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25
Jim Titt wrote:I am a 62 year old climber that has been climbing on-again-off-again for about 42 years. I have never done any climbing-specific traning and I climb no more than once a month and stop for the winter, yet I cilmb at a 5.12a (leading sport outdoors) level. I would love to know what level you guys think I could climb at if I trained and/or climbed more,stopped smoking and drinking.Also, if I were to Start learning to spell what do you guys recomend? Thanks!
I would PM Aleks.
Drew Hayes · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 110

Have you ever played Pokeman? The same principles of leveling up your Pokemans also applies to climbing.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
Wade J. wrote: I would PM Aleks.
Climbing friend titts!

At aging of 62, your strength is gone and your meaningful career of the climbing sport basing on the difficult flashes at elite gradings is over.

However, if you would perform many yerkovs in the gym, do not smoke, do not drink, eat incredible quantities of raw fishheads and high quality cheesesteaks, I feel you would be seeing some increase in performance and possibly achieve 13a redpoint and 12a bold flash. Also do not forget, you must be making much work of the Sven Lavransen 4-plan for success on the climbing rocks relentlessly. And do no waste time with multipitch or gear climbing. You must be doing the maximum bouldering and sport of climbing.

I am also hearing through the forums of the internets that if you maintain a half-erection during bold flash, it may help your climbing movement on bold flash. I am not certain about this. Just do not grind it into the climbing rocks or having it becoming caught in your harness before large fall.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

How shall I manage a half-erection? Are there drugs available?

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Jim Titt wrote:How shall I manage a half-erection? Are there drugs available?
You just have to be really psyched about the climb.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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