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Broken clavicle. Suggestions for crosstraining/sanity

Original Post
Stephen Burns · · Telluride, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

howdy mountain project.
I busted my distal clavicle (just the tip...) one week ago snowboarding and doc says I'm quite a ways out till freedom again. Wondering if there are any suggestions for training, activities, or general coping mechanisms people have found while waiting to get back on the wall!?
Thanks

Mike Nevko · · Currently Charlotte · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 1,626

I crushed mine snowboarding in 2010, I was pretty high on the morphine train in the Ambulance from Echo Mountain.

Busted

I ended up getting surgery (pins, plates, and screws, whoO!) to fix it and was out commission for 8-10 weeks with immobility. Couldn't anything other and squeeze a ball and those hand strengtheners.

To maintain sanity and coping with not climbing for a while. Find stoke in other hobbies. I got good at crocheting (dexterity!), used a guide book and went mushroom hunting (novelty), other stuff that got me outside besides climbing. Gasp, do I say that there is fun in life beside climbing.

You probably wont be out at long, but even for general healthyness, just find other fun hobbies.

Jacob Smith · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 230

I haven't had that particular injury so I can't speak to recovery, but I have had four different climbing-prohibiting injuries in the last year so I do have a fair amount of experience with general coping.
the biggest problem for me was/is feeling stagnant, like I am losing time I'm never going to get back, to that end,

- if there is something climbing-related you can do, do it. If you can't work upper body, go hiking, if you can't walk, train grip strength, if you can't wear climbing shoes, try aid.

- educate yourself. most climbers don't know shit about the history of climbing and would really benefit from reading the classics. this can be a pretty depressing exercise when you are first injured and pining after the mountains but i find it to be really motivational once you are on the upswing.

- if those two fail, the best thing I have come up with is to find something completely unrelated to climbing that I care about and get really into it. it helps if it's something productive/creative and it has to fully occupy your mind. the goal is to make it feel ok that you can't climb. if you start climbing again and miss this thing, you have succeeded.
some things I've tried are,

- computer games and board games; it can be hard to find a good one but when you do there is almost no better distraction

- the artistic pursuit of your choice; writing, drawing and music require minimal monetary investment and can be very rewarding

- romantic entanglements; not that I've had any luck, but it does sound like fun doesn't it?

Also, and in addition to all of these things, I've found it very helpful to cultivate friendships with non-climbers. Hanging out with the crew can be fun but kind of disheartening when they are all off doing cool stuff and you are not.
Anyways, hope the recovery goes well!

Tyler S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I broke my clavicle awhile back and opted for surgery. It brought my recovery down from an estimated 6 months to a little over 6 weeks. Id highly recommend it especially if you're like me and cant stand the figure of 8 brace.

Mr. Wonderful · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10

.
Cloud with a silver lining -

Broke my right clavicle and am right handed. Result was increased strength and dexterity in my left hand.

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

After three broken collar bones (all left side) I realized risking re injury is NOT worth it. I went riding dirtbikes again when I thought I was in the clear and re broke. Imagine the dispare of knowing you'd have to start all over. Make sure your diet, sleep quality and vitamin intake is optimal to help healing and stay active without any risk if injury.

Stephen Burns · · Telluride, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Thanks for responses! As it is looking now, no surgery is needed, unless I do something dumb, so says the ortho. Learning to not do something dumb is in itself a learning curve. So far I've; slipped on ice, tried to catch a falling case of beer (I manage a bar), plus a slew of other things I thought it would be okay to remove the sling for.
Today my arm is sore, going back to the doc to make sure I didn't mess anything up. I'd like to think I'm not an idiot, just broke, needing to work, and stir crazy.
I'm trying to learn to like hiking, which should be easy enough because I live in a beautiful place, but... I just don't like hiking. Hoping trail running can being in a couple weeks.
Reading books is nice, but there are only so many hours in a day one can read.
I'm thinking of brushing up on my spanish, calculus, and model ship building.

Things learned so far.
Don't break yourself in a mountain town where everyone is doing something awesome everyday.

If you do, get creative and try not to kick yourself too hard.

Don't be dumb, spring is right around the corner and there is plenty of creek climbing to be done. <<positive thinking.

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

I couldn't imagine trail running due to the up and down jarring and the pain associated. Focus on staying healthy, minimizing sudden movements and rehab per MDs or PTs order. And don't re injur. Good luck.

Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

I broke my clavicle 6 weeks before I was supposed to leave for Argentina to hike Aconcagua. It was still a little dodgy when I left but it never created a problem while on the mountain and that included hauling a 70# pound pack down from 19,500 ft.

Wear the figure 8 brace and take it easy. 6 weeks goes by pretty quick.

I should also mention that since my break, I've had consistent elbow issues (epicondylitis). Finally went and saw a PT and she was convinced that the clavicle break altered my shoulder geometry and totally threw off my natural biomechanics. Certain muscles in my shoulder and back of the affected side do not fire the same as the non-affected side so I've been compensating with weaker muscles and different movements that have lead to the persistent elbow issues. So, it's a good idea to see a PT well after you're active again to make sure things didn't go all wonky.

Anyways, here's my gory picture:

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Broke mine a while back, racing go-Karts....

Walking is OK, Running is out.

I was able to start climbing again after like 8 weeks, but no steep climbing- only slab/ friction.

When I couldnt climb I found out that the grigri works really well one handed, so I became a belay slave. Your going to need favors from your crew later on when you can climb. They will need to get the rope up for you on very EZ stuff....

And you wont be able to carry a pack for some time..... so they will need to split up your stuff and carry it for you.

Best of luck to you Stephen

Victoria Leslie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Writing for future people. I broke mine on 8/26 and had surgery 2 days later. It was too displaced to treat non surgical. I am almost 3 weeks post op now. Pain is gone and PT and Dr say I should be able to climb and MTbike by week 6. GO to PT early. It was the smartest thing I could have done. I started at week one to prevent stiffness and get safe exercises with pulleys to work on biceps and triceps. They also have a cold laser treatment that studies show to lower heal time by a week or two. Fingers crossed. I am hoping to be back road biking at lease by week 4. First few weeks were the worse. I can not imagine not getting surgery and having those bones grind for a while.  
Tips to survive boredom.... I hiked a lot. Focused on diet and bone healing. I do not smoke but the worst thing you can do is smoke. I increased protein, amino acids and antioxidants....  So some research. I also started taking and old person vitamin for bone health. Pretty much an desperate measure. The pain is gone after 3 weeks and PT says I can be out of the sling and move shoulder up to 90 degrees soon.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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