Endurance Training

limpingcrab wrote:Even the "enduro corner" only takes a few minutes

Luc,

here is an article by Steve Bechtel that might address your training needs, specifically the section labelled "more intense climbing in a pitch"

climbstrong.com/articles/20…

If you want variation to the workouts listed in the referenced article you can may want to try Rhythm Intervals using holds similar to the ones you will find at the Red (info and video links provided on the website).

You can also do a word search on "endurance training" on the Climb Strong website to get additional training information. As a strength and climbing coach Betchel's training philosophy and practices have evolved over time so you get the benefit of someone who has worked with advanced & elite climbers and knows what works and what does not work.

Rui Ferreira wrote:Luc, here is an article by Steve Bechtel that might address your training needs, specifically the section labelled "more intense climbing in a pitch" climbstrong.com/articles/20… If you want variation to the workouts listed in the referenced article you can may want to try Rhythm Intervals using holds similar to the ones you will find at the Red (info and video links provided on the website). You can also do a word search on "endurance training" on the Climb Strong website to get additional training information. As a strength and climbing coach Betchel's training philosophy and practices have evolved over time so you get the benefit of someone who has worked with advanced & elite climbers and knows what works and what does not work.

if you have a particular route or crux in mind you may want to do your rhythm intervals using those type of holds, for example pockets, small edges, etc.

I guess in general for the Red you would want to do the drills with pockets and edges as opposed to slopers or jugs