Frenchman Coulee

Hi all,

My girlfriend is dragging me to Dave Matthew's music festival at The Gorge in early September, being from Alabama, I know very little about the area, the routes, etc. We plan on climbing at Frenchman Coulee for a few days before the festival kicks off.

Do any of these sport routes have anchors at the top? What's the access like? Any useful information a guy from the South Eastern U.S. might need?

Thanks,

Brent C.

Yes, most sport routes have anchors at the top. Access to this area is easy, but you do need a WA State Parks pass to park at the parking area. Frenchman Coulee (or just "Vantage" to us locals) has the reputation of being an outdoor gym. It can get very crowded during the high season of spring/fall, top rope gangbangs, general jackassery. That said, I think most climbers avoid the place like the plague during gorge concerts. And most climbers have bigger objectives than vantage for labor day weekend.

About an hour and a half drive from the gorge you can find good granite in leavenworth. There is some sport, but it is the trad climbing that really shines there.

what grades are you looking to climb? this would help with advice on how to avoid the hordes.

Did the same thing this last year. Climbed the day before and then headed over for the Sunday show. Overall, there wasn't a lot of people there so could pretty much hop on anything. But it was a cooler weekend. Good good climbing weather. Normally it is much warmer that time of year. And as it was said before, it is very much an outdoor gym. But the views are good. Grab the guidebook by Ford & Yoder 3rd Edtion, or save the money and get the free pdf of The Best of Frenchman Coulee by Dillet and you should be good to go.

The only thing you would really need to get is a Discover Pass to camp at the Coulee, no reservations needed Just find a spot west of the Feathers and stake a tent. And a car with higher clearance wouldn't hurt, or one that you don't mind the chance to scrape the bottom up. Driving around the open camping area is a little rough.

Thanks Ashort, I kind of assumed "Vantage" would be a god awful shitty mess when considering its proximity to the Gorge. I had originally wanted to just sport climb in lieu of Trad (Depending on the air line, flying out there with a full rack could get expensive), but I may have to sack up and bring everything.

Ashort, can I pick up the state park pass at Vantage? We are flying into Spokane, and taking a rental car from there.

frankstoneline, In regards to sport, I normally try to warm up on 5.9's, and usually top out around 5.11 c/d.

Vantage sounds a lot like T-Wall (Tennessee Wall), if the weather is right, you'll spend a great deal of your time walking around the base of the crag, in hopes that you actually find a decent route that is open. So maybe the drive to Leavenworth is worth it? Can you camp at Leavenworth?

Andrew Davidson, thanks for the info man, I'll definitely look in to getting a guide book. I'm glad you mentioned the higher clearance.

Bring a helmet, there's choss everywhere at the crags. If you want to climb on basalt that isn't as crowded, has less death blocks, and is just better in every conceivable way, head to Tieton.

Click on "Where To Buy" for a list of vendors. You cannot buy the pass at the vantage parking area.
discoverpass.wa.gov/31/Abou…

As far as guidebooks go you can probably get by with the free PDF available online, and just ask to borrow someone's book if needed to supplement.

Depending on how much time you have leavenworth is worth it, haha. Single pitch or multi-pitch adventures await you there. Everything from roadside cragging to alpine routes.

Tieton is another good suggestion for sport or trad. Definitely better rock quality than vantage. About 1 hour drive from vantage.

If you have a national park/fed lands pass bring it in case you go to leavenworth or tieton.

Book Southwest for free checked bags. Some rewards programs allow free bags as well.

Brent C. wrote:Thanks Ashort, I kind of assumed "Vantage" would be a god awful shitty mess when considering its proximity to the Gorge. I had originally wanted to just sport climb in lieu of Trad (Depending on the air line, flying out there with a full rack could get expensive), but I may have to sack up and bring everything. Ashort, can I pick up the state park pass at Vantage? We are flying into Spokane, and taking a rental car from there. frankstoneline, In regards to sport, I normally try to warm up on 5.9's, and usually top out around 5.11 c/d. Vantage sounds a lot like T-Wall (Tennessee Wall), if the weather is right, you'll spend a great deal of your time walking around the base of the crag, in hopes that you actually find a decent route that is open. So maybe the drive to Leavenworth is worth it? Can you camp at Leavenworth? Andrew Davidson, thanks for the info man, I'll definitely look in to getting a guide book. I'm glad you mentioned the higher clearance.

The older Frenchman Coulee book is out of print. Do not assume that Leavenworth Mountain Sports will have copies of the Leavenworth book, they sometimes struggle to keep it in stock (you'll definitely need a book or some detailed guide).

I would be a little wary of a rental car in the Vantage camping area, especially if you're driving at night. No, not for theft, for banging it up a little on the potholes/rocks in the "road" (it's more similar to an unmaintained but well traveled trail); be careful out there!

If you're going to go to Leavenworth over Labor Day weekend either make campground reservations (soon!) or plan to camp on the side of the road (it is cheaper!) & get up early.

You can drive a lowered Subaru all over the camping area.. High clearance.. No.

Stay off the sunshine wall and you will have free reign of the cliffs.

Just bring quickdraws... If you only have a day, don't bother with cams.

Choss? I guess so guys... Maybe they only climb the "gang banged uber classics" ? There are so many great quality sport Lines in the 11s... Pm me if you want my list. I really love Vantage. I live in socal now and its one of the crags I actually miss!