best example of what happens when you dont extend the pieces under a roof
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aside from the obvious questions that have already been debated to death, does anyone know which route this is? |
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Heather Dolan wrote:After reading these comments I'm confident that (as always) learning difficult things (trad placement, etc.) first is the way to go. Makes life easier in the long run. :) the instructors life too I imagine.Learn how to climb cracks before you learn how to place gears. I started out doing mostly crack climbing and only recently started doing more sport and bouldering. It clearly helped with my technique and I was able to climb harder trad route by making more efficient movements (not always just trying to jam the crack straight in). So at the end of the day, focus on the climbing skills first, no need to rush into the whole "trad is better than sport" debate, because it isn't. Being a well-rounded climber will make your life easier in the long run. |
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The climb appears to be "coronary bypass" at resporation rock, smoke bluffs, squamish |
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Coronary Bypass from adventuredime.wordpress.com… |
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Very interesting thread. Even with my inexperience with cams, and trad protected roof problems, the rope drag and consequent walking of the lower cam was immediately worry. But that aside.... |
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Mathias wrote:So to me it makes sense to protect the move from a placement above the roof before pulling it.Personally I prefer to protect a route. Route protection means placing gear where it should be placed in order to protect leader *and follower(s)* from hitting anything but air (ledges, obstacles, swinging to faces, etc). It is better to commit to a hard move with a possibility of 20+ feet clean fall on a bomber piece then to stop and to gain extra pump just before the hard move to place a piece that is not make a route safer (ref. "clean fall on a bomber piece"). I would call it a "false sense of safety" - gain no additional safety for a price of a piece of pro (you'll probably need it higher), and extra pump just below the hard move, and time. |
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Pavel Burov wrote: Personally I prefer to protect a route. Route protection means placing gear where it should be placed in order to protect leader *and follower(s)* from hitting anything but air (ledges, obstacles, swinging to faces, etc). It is better to commit to a hard move with a possibility of 20+ feet clean fall on a bomber piece then to stop and to gain extra pump just before the hard move to place a piece that is not make a route safer (ref. "clean fall on a bomber piece"). I would call it a "false sense of safety" - gain no additional safety for a price of a piece of pro (you'll probably need it higher), and extra pump just below the hard move, and time.I only do what I read on Mtn. project, the experts here are out of this world. If only I could just climb rock more than once a year I might be able to put all of this to use. |
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tri cam |
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The main problem was the camo boonie hat, everyone knows when you wear that cap you should only pull 5.8 |
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At :13 you see the red metolius walk a bunch as he moves up - in my opinion too much for a piece to have confidence in. Poor placements, poor crack technique (his left hand is thrutching about, and no sign of a #4 or #5 on his harness indicates it isn't stacked fists in that corner). |