Pushing ratings while avoiding finger injury..

work on technique. Seems to be the big thing. I notice when Im really focused on technique I barely use my finger strength (yes i know its actually forearm strength) at all, instead my feet get sore. I watched a 66 year old man climb overhanging 5.13b like it was a 5.9. its all technique.

Ryan Arnold wrote: Also, tendons and ligaments take up 7 years to catch up to newly hypertrophied muscles in terms of strength.

I hear and read this sort of thing stated confidently from time to time but never with any supporting data. I'm curious as to what evidence there is for it? It makes no sense from an evolutionary perspective.

Finger injuries don't seem like evidence to me, the stresses on fingers from high standard rock climbing are clearly wildly greater than in almost any other human activity. It would be amazing if climbers didn't injure their fingers.

The original poster has not told us much about what kind of climbing he does, other than its mainly indoors. Does he favour one grip type over another, does he warm up and down properly, how much variety does he get in a week - all hard sessions or a mix, how much bouldering and how much route climbing does he do, how much does he weigh, how old is he? There are numerous other possible contributory factors and any instant diagnosis has a good chance of being wrong.

duncan... wrote: I'm curious as to what evidence there is for it?

There is none. I suspect that lore originated when the old timers realized that the noobs were getting stronger; hence, no fingerboarding for at least 7 years.

Aaron covington wrote:I watched a 66 year old man climb overhanging 5.13b like it was a 5.9. its all technique.

No, he's really strong and probably has good technique too. Technique alone won't get you up 13's though.

Eliot, as usual I disagree with everything you said, sorry man.

OP: It's a fine line between getting stronger and getting injured, especially as you get older. That's why progress happens so slowly.

Offwidth. Not a crimp to be found on many hard offwidths.

Problem solved.

Ted Pinson wrote:tape is a good idea as well. I usually only tape when I get skin flappers.

I have found effective taping to be key for me.
I tore two A4s after only two months of climbing (too hard too fast).
I took a month and a half off to rest and saw a physical therapist who basically said to stretch and do easy finger exercises while taking a break from climbing.
When I started climbing again my fingers were still a little sore when I made a fist but I used the 'H Taping' method with horizontal taping over that and have been climbing hard 2-3 days a week (with hard crimping) and my fingers have continued to improve.
I have also been taping my fingers at work (I do a good bit of heavy lifting and lifting with my fingers) and that has been helping a lot.
I also ice after climbing.

What Garrett said, obvi. If you can get your OW leading to anywhere your OS face climbing grade you're doing better than me. Especially in a gym in Chicago!