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Recommendations on approach shoes?

Original Post
Mthoresz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

Hey y'all... looking for some good ideas for approach shoes. Ideally, they'd be super comfy (I don't have the best feet and usually put orthotics in all my shoes, so I'd like to put them in whatever approach shoes I buy), and even more ideally, these would be suitable for perhaps hiking as well, if those goals aren't incompatible. Lightweight would be great, too. Price isn't the biggest factor here, it's more about usefulness. Thx for your ideas!

pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

5.10 guide tennie FTW

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

You can find Adidas approach shoes for really cheap and they work well for me!

Alan Zhan · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 156

Got a pair of guide tennies a few weeks ago (they're on sale for like $50 at the five ten shop) so I can't speak about the durability, but I've taken them on a few trips and the toe area is a little tight in the beginning. I got used to it pretty quickly, and it definitely helps for climbing with em on. All of the hikes I've been on have been < 5 miles, but I liked them for it.

The rubber is REALLY sticky though, it's awesome.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Second on the 5.10 guides. But get the older models - the new ones are heavier and stiffer. You can pick them up on their website for $29 right now.

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

I have always been curious as to why more people don't wear boots for approach shoes. If it's a nice warm sunny day then I opt for more of a tennis shoe or real light weight hiking boot but 90% of the time I am wearing water proof boots that keep my feet warm and dry!

I went to a army surplus store about six years ago and got a pair of old combat boots. They weigh a lot but after countless days hiking in all types of weather I have been happy and they are holding up great.

Keep in mind that I'm not wearing them out get groceries or any of the other stuff that most climbers do in approach shoes!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
mustardtiger wrote:I have always been curious as to why more people don't wear boots for approach shoes. If it's a nice warm sunny day then I opt for more of a tennis shoe or real light weight hiking boot but 90% of the time I am wearing water proof boots that keep my feet warm and dry! I went to a army surplus store about six years ago and got a pair of old combat boots. They weigh a lot but after countless days hiking in all types of weather I have been happy and they are holding up great. Keep in mind that I'm not wearing them out get groceries or any of the other stuff that most climbers do in approach shoes!
Carrying boots on a long multi is a biatch, especially if u arent bringing a pack

;)
Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

I love my Scarpa Vitamins. Hike/run great, and climb great.

Jim T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 469
Austin Baird wrote:Second on the 5.10 guides. But get the older models - the new ones are heavier and stiffer. You can pick them up on their website for $29 right now.
Could you do a favor a paste a link? All I can find at fiveten.com is the new model at $120-$130.

Thanks!
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I've got the FiveTen Guide Tennies and La Sportiva Boulder X. The Tennies feel better to my wider feet. The Boulder X seem like a better trail shoe though, due to the sole material and tread pattern. Just my two cents.

Tyler Phillips · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 3,210
Austin Baird wrote:Second on the 5.10 guides. But get the older models - the new ones are heavier and stiffer. You can pick them up on their website for $29 right now.
Holiday sale is over mang.
Alan Zhan · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 156
shopfiveten.com/C-43/Closeouts

There are still a few models on sale in the closeout sections. I didn't check any of the sizes though.
Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,957

Try these, they're pretty bombproof and comfortable. Sticky too.

Camp four from 5.10.

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

I have and use the 5.10 Guide. I prefer them for shorter approaches, say less than 3 miles one way. As the approaches get longer I don't feel like there is enough "shoe" there. There is limited support and cushioning compared to even a solid running shoe or hiking boot. This is great for scrambling as you get better feel and much more traction but beacuse of this on the longer approaches my feet just get beat up and sore. If I wasn't adding in wearing climbing shoes for +/- 6 hours I probably could hike a few more miles in the approach shoes before my feet got beat up.

Alex McIntyre · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 546

I like the Scarpa Crux Canvas.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
shopfiveten.com/P-215505001… - they still have some.
Mthoresz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

These are great ideas, everyone, thank you!!

Tyler Phillips · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 3,210
Alan Zhan wrote:http://shopfiveten.com/C-43/Closeouts There are still a few models on sale in the closeout sections. I didn't check any of the sizes though.
Good find
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

There are at least two types of approach shoes. The idea for one type is to hike to the climb, carry on the harness, and hike down. The idea for another type is to hike and climb in them, the climbing usually being relatively easy for the ability of the climber.

If you are just leaving the shoes at the bottom, none of the qualities that are usually part of approach shoes matter much. At the other end of the spectrum, for use primarily for not-to-gnarly descents from climbs, aome people are going ultralight and/or ultracompact with some kind of water-shoe slipper or Vibram five-fingers bootie.

Getting back to the two main categories, for the first type of shoe, you want the lightest you can get because they're going to be bouncing around on your harness (or maybe in the second's pack). Climbability isn't a big concern. A superlight trail-running shoe seems to me to be the best bet for this.

For the second type of shoe, you want sticky rubber, a fit that can be snugged up, and a front end shaped a little more for climbing. Guide Tennies have excelled in this department for years of scrambles in the Sierra to the grand Fitzroy Massif traverse by Caldwell and Honnold, but there are quite a few competitors. The Evolv Cruzer has gotten a lot of good press and might bridge the gap and satisfy type 1 standards too. Guide Tennies aren't heavy but you can get lighter with trail-running shoes if you don't need to climb in them so much.

There is, of course, a range for each type and the ranges probably overlap. But it is worth thinking about how you mostly want to use the approach shoe before you buy a pair.

Will Carney · · Tallulah Falls, GA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 135

I climb V5 in my Scarpa Crux shoes. They are awesome. The guides are good but not as good as the Crux in my opinion especially on loose terrain. The guides rule on wet rock though. Also have a pair of the Adidas Terrex and have to day they are solid as well but nowhere near as comfy as the Scarpas.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

Anything but the evolv cruisers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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