dawn wall send attempt
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"It is being characterized as a red point attempt which would indicate that pre-placed pro is totally acceptable." |
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CJC wrote: Yeah that's wrong...but they have been pre-equipping some pitches. Not that it takes away from the achievement. |
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Looks like Tommy is done with the dyno workaround pitch - doesn't this mean that Tommy has sent all of the crux pitches and is basically sailing from here on? In that case, what do people speculate will happen if Kevin can't send 15/16? Will Tommy take the send and have Kevin jug/belay? |
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Directly from Tommy: |
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JCM wrote: There has not yet been a true flash or onsight of any major El Cap free route. This includes Freerider, which is a full 2 number grades easier than the Dawn Wall and much less sustained. The difficulty of flashing or onsighting an El Cap free route is highlighted by the fact that there have several instances in which a very accomplished climber has almost flashed an El Cap route, and even these almost-successes are considered major accomplishments. Notably, Pete of the "Wideboys" had a "sort-of" flash of Freerider this year, in which he tried one pitch, fell off, and then instead of retrying that pitch he did an alternate variation to the pitch, which he flashed. Really not a true flash, since he did fall off, but an impressive effort nonetheless. Some Euro had a similar quasi-flash a few years ago. Ethan Pringle recently almost flashed Freerider over a 2-day period, doing all of the hardest piiches first try but biffing it on a 5.11 pitch high on the route. I imagine he was quite tired.i think mike anderson's ascent of freerider should be mentioned in this list, particularly when you consider that his couple of 'rest' days probably weren't too 'restful'... |
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slim wrote: i think mike anderson's ascent of freerider should be mentioned in this list, particularly when you consider that his couple of 'rest' days probably weren't too 'restful'...What's the story with Mike's ascent? |
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i googled it a while back and found a thread on supertopo. here is the clif's notes from what i remember. he and mark had done the salathe on aid a few years earlier (this is one of the points of contention that i forgot about, although the hard freerider pitches are different pitches than the salathe, but anyway...). a few years later he and mark came back to try to do freerider. he onsighted the first half, rapped down, flew or drove back to SLC to defend a thesis or take a final or something (MS in Mech Eng), flew or drove back to the valley within 24 hours, climbed back to the top of the first half, onsighted the second half. |
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slim wrote:i googled it a while back and found a thread on supertopo. here is the clif's notes from what i remember. he and mark had done the salathe on aid a few years earlier (this is one of the points of contention that i forgot about, although the hard freerider pitches are different pitches than the salathe, but anyway...). a few years later he and mark came back to try to do freerider. he onsighted the first half, rapped down, flew or drove back to SLC to defend a thesis or take a final or something (MS in Mech Eng), flew or drove back to the valley within 24 hours, climbed back to the top of the first half, onsighted the second half. this, to me, is pretty solid - particularly as i am a working stiff with a serious job and i have a pretty good understanding of how much energy it would sap for this 'rest' that some folks have criticized. climbing's hot flashes versionI think the same principle would apply to Mike's send as to Pringle and Whittaker's - which is to say, freaking incredible |
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I very good effort by this team ..obviously they have to use sport climbing techniques to climb at this grade. |
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s.price wrote: Why can't ya'll just kick back and enjoy what could be a huge step in the climbing world. Like a bunch of hens pickin at scratch.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uljlVRDT3wk&feature=youtu.be&t=13s |
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Astroman was a "ream " effort in 1975 by some of the best climbers anywhere..Dawn is similar a groundbreaking, visionary effort |
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Miike wrote: youtube.com/watch?v=uljlVRD…hahahahah |
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john strand wrote:Astroman was a "ream " effort in 1075 by some of the best climbers anywhere..Dawn is similar a groundbreaking, visionary effortalmost 900 years before their time |
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john strand wrote: "ream " effort in 1075 by some of the best climbers anywhere..Okay you got me... ream effort? in 1075? I have no clue what ream or "in 1075" means... care to elaborate? |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: Okay you got me... ream effort? in 1075? I have no clue what ream or "in 1075" means... care to elaborate?Picky,picky though i think John Long may have been a Viking during a previous life |
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Except Astroman was done in a day and was well within their collective abilities. Impressive but nowhere near the same as the Dawn Wall attempt. |
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john strand wrote: Picky,picky though i think John Long may have been a Viking during a previous life(mass confusion sets in...) So are they using ATCs or GriGris? |
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Kevin Mokracek wrote:Except Astroman was done in a day and was well within their collective abilities. Impressive but nowhere near the same as the Dawn Wall attempt.True,,but it was also 40 years ago as well. Perhaps the Nose is a better example..in a day, all pitches free etc..but not initially |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: (mass confusion sets in...) So are they using ATCs or GriGris?Vikings use hip belays, duh. |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: (mass confusion sets in...) So are they using ATCs or GriGris?the internet traddies would like to think ATCs I'm sure! |