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Tips on removing stuck cams (At any cost!)

Original Post
Henryluedtke · · Wisconsin · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15

I keep running into cams that are hopelessly stuck while on trad routes or setting up top rope anchors that have been left in the rock to rust and look unsightly. I am wondering if anyone has any advice on how to go about removing these cams, either preserving them or just getting them out of the rock by any means. I know that cams get stuck in all sorts of ways but I am interested in anything you guys got. I have been disappointedly unenterprising on this matter. Thanks!

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

I imagine a cold chisel and a 3 lb sledge would work pretty good. Just be careful with your aim.

MacM · · Tucson/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 675

A buddy of mine taught me a few ways. Basically, "if it went in there, it'll come out." No need to damage the rock around it. Use some soapy water to gain movement in conjunction with zip ties for the tiggers (keeps the lobes contracted). Also use coat hangers to fish it out of it's in there. Once you gain movement (and patience!) you basically have the cam/nut/Tri-cam/etc.

Scottmx426 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Tools and time I imagine would do it. But who wants to stop for long enough when on a climb. Going out with that goal in mind would likely yield success. Imagine how many pieces of fixed gear reside in the cracks of Yosemite. They're everywhere. Good luck man!

Tom Nyce · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 45

One of the most common situations is "overcammed," when the cams are pushed down all the way, and the tip of the cam(s) touches the other side of the crack. The method I use most often is:
Get hanging (from a top rope, or another piece) with your waist at the level of the piece. Girth hitch parachute cord around the stem, above the trigger bar so it goes around the wires and stem. Hook the cord to your harness somehow. Now, moving your body away from the rock pulls on that cord, putting gentle/constant tension on the trigger wires, and leaving both of your hand still free to work. Use a nut pick(s), concentrating on the points where the tip of the cam lobe (not the curved part) hit the rock.
When you get even a tiny amount of movement from the cams, the parachute cord girth hitch will take up any slack in the trigger wires, and pull the cam towards you at the same time.
There are many other situations, and methods though. I've disassembled (Wild Country) cams before, when I had access to the nut on the end of the axle (modern models use an allen screw, which is even easier).

Jonathan Cunha · · Bolinas, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 62

I have found that there are very few problems in this world that can't be solved by either--a Sawzall, a bottle of Jack Daniels or by a shot gun...number one should work just fine in this case.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Haul a 30lb 20ton jack up there, because why the hell not? Use an amalgamation of hitches and fancy rope work with some accessory cord to tie the cam to the underside of the jack. Now with the underside facing you and the lifting surface pressed against the wall, start jacking.

Put those kN ratingss to the real test!

Henryluedtke · · Wisconsin · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks all, I can't wait to put some of your ideas to the test. I appreciate the help and my crag will be cleaner as a result!

Magpie79 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

Dynamite

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,065

Take a plain hacksaw blade, duct tape a keeper cord on one end, and keep winding the duct tape around for a while. Super light and easy to bring. You can unwind and use the extra duct tape to protect the rock surface if you need to prevent it from getting damaged (depends on rock type). A hacksaw cuts aluminum very quickly, and the blade fits in thin cracks.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

step 1. Acquire extendable weiner roaster fork (2 prong variety)
step 2. bend fork tines into hooks
step 3. go cam fishin'

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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