2014 - 2015 Utah Region Ice

@chad: I tried to lead the thing but had hollow "thunks" every swing and backed off. Felt super aerated to me and wasn't looking to press my luck. I'm not super experienced at leading ice so I'm welcome to feedback from more experienced ice climbers.

GREAT WHITE ICICLE, Sunday, 2:00 pm, Dec 28. Did not see a single car GWI trail roadside. Was sure it was Triassic Era, i.e., no cars then. Then figured errant snowblower took them all out. Third thought (probably more accurate) was this was the result of all the drugs I did when younger now catching up with me. Figured it was a lot of people smarter than me re: potential avalanche danger but just back from 130 degree India & still cooling down so what the hell.

Was snowing, not a blizzard but I've never seen a complete dearth of climbers at the GWI (at least at roadside anyway), unless night climbing. Could see the GWI from the road but no distinct footprints in the snow on the trail or at the base. It's possible someone went up earlier but at the base, saw numerous tracks but did not look fresh at all; they could have been covered up with earlier snow....no idea. If any forum members were there Sunday a.m. post up.

Have never seen the GWI in such bad, even dangerous conditions. The photos are but a hint. The sound of and amount of rushing water, not only where my tools are placed (see pic) but basically under much of the entire bottom curtain. The horizontal "slice" above had running water that could be heard but also echoed under the ice....that was kinda of cool. Showed this pic to several people (as a 'quiz;) who have climbed this hundreds of times & at first had no idea where it was until they saw the upper bulge in the top of photo. Looks white but isn't; up close it was streaked with dirt, sucker holes, ugliness.

Decided to go anyway; skirted the bottom first pitch way to the left, near Vernal. Up to the last lower rappel chains, tippy toed across the snow field (at a sharp angle) and could still hear water now & then; (but deep). Never heard water in the snowfield before. Next steeper pitch (up to Shingo's annual party area), mostly like the first pitch but there are often sucker holes & sound of water anyway, even in a good winter. Skirted the steep upper bulge pitch by staying far to the right, somewhere west, near the freeway in Draper. So far, so good. The bulge was not only manky, it was streaked vertically with dirt, even with about 4" of fresh snow. Stayed on the right side of that but it really sucked.

Remembering that I forgot to sort my socks Sunday morning and needing to get back home to do that ASAP, pulled out 2 70's (when starting the route, I figured I might have to rap down cuz no way was I....nor anyone I know....would feel like down climbing the mine field, esp. if getting dusk which I figured it would be). Rapped the route and couldn't believe the "smart attack" I had in thinking it might sort of be a good time; was rappelling over and around things that were, well, phuqued (but interesting).

This week's cold will be better but a lot of healing to be done (Van Morrison's song). Some holes from the base to ½ up the upper bulge (where I turned around) were huge, thundering and rushing streams/mini rivers...going to take a lot of Morrison to fix those. (If others up there that a.m., it probably wouldn't have been that bad). Careful if you go this week.

If you aren't familiar with the GWI (either solo or a team) & the last pitch (the upper curtain), could be like finding yourself in Mosul if you aren't comfortable getting up it. I could see most of it from the flat area before the bulge....looked bad but one never knows until you are closer. I'd consider what to do with the upper curtain in your plans. If it's in terrible condition, you're now in a position where you have to make one of two decisions that you should be prepared for, i.e., go up or go down.

Three ways down the GWI: 1) up and over the curtain & hike down the long, steep trail from atop the GWI; 2) rap your way down but if you only have a single rope (60 or 70, kinda doesn't matter...they will both take a lot of time); take two ropes instead, or, 3) the third option down GWI is one none of us want to take (but many in the forum know who has).

As per above, if anyone was up there Sunday a.m., you probably had a different experience because there would have been less snow cover (maybe) & you could have seen and heard the holes (& you remembered to have sorted your socks earlier). I'm sure all reading this string will be interested in your experience that morning and which route you took up (& did you top out?).

It is definitely climbable.....but I wouldn't get caught up high if it's getting late (make sure you take headlamp and a car battery to keep your light charged).

(Behind pic of my tools stuck in ice is a water fall, not just slow drips. After the pics, took a couple of swings at it and knocked a lot of it in). It's basically a water fall, shallow but falling and a lot of water.

Except for my footprints (just in front of the tools), there were NO footprints visible.....those that look like such are holes to a cold one.

GWI in horrible shape Dec 28, 2014; base of climb. Upper bulge at top of photo.

Close up of deceiving icicle curtain at base of GWI.

SCRUFFY BAND Dec 28, 2014.

You might consider going to the Scruffy Band (& not the GWI, recognizing two diff experiences).

It may not look like it but there is a lot of ice at the Band (more also to the right & left of these photos).

This area won't have the problem I described above re: GWI. With the coming cold, SB should fatten quickly & other lines show up. Looking between the jumble of blocks to the right, you might see many short columns of solid ice (short). If you are into mixed climbing whatever grade, this area can be a fun (?) maze to work through. With a fresh 4 inches of snow, makes more challenging & difficult.

At the top of this area are several good, but short, solid columns and more below. To the left of the large boulder are a few mini-runnels (easy WI3/WI2+) iced up, maybe 40 short feet.

Scruffy Band, Dec 28, 2014

East part of Scruffy Band area, Dec 28, 2014

Provo Canyon is building. Cold as hell and brittle today. Temps were alright but the wind was brutal.

Fang first curtain is in mostly in. No tube to speak of.
Millers might be climbable. Also slightly thin.
BVL is thin, but probably would go to the top.
BVR looks pretty good to go.
White Nightmare curtain is good to go, second pitch looks slim, but would go.
Stairway First pitch is good, second pitch might be real thin. Pitches 3/4 might go alright.

The bridal veil area is a roll of the dice right now. All kinds of new treasures from the old tram littering the area.

Bridal Veil 12/30

Stairway 12/30

Joe's Valley is in. We took a ton of pictures but they will not be loaded for a couple days because they are still on my DLSR.
Oh ya... No wind... and it was sunny for part of the day... and nobody around for miles :)

Dirtcicle is also in. We didn't climb it but did snap a shot while driving by.

Dirtcicle 12/30/2014

Went to Santaquin today, Squash Head getting close, thick upper half thin bottom,not quite touching down solid, tempting, but give it about a week. Back Off thin but climbable if your bold.

back off 12/30

Thanks to all for the reports, pics and for putting them in the same thread!

Squash Head barely touching down. Give it a few more days.
Squashead (12-30-14)

Backoff "in" but thin.
Backoff (12-30-14)

Thanks for the up dates. Starting to look good!

Did first ascent of the season of Kanarraville Falls (northern piece=Camp Creek). Was on my way back from backcountry skiing, only had an hour thus did not get a chance to check out the other pillar. On the 26th was not close to being in. On 30th, just touched down. Pro is still quite shaky, after several more days of prevailing temps, should be in outstanding shape. Good water volume. Enjoy.

Hi John
Good to meet you yesterday, and thanks for hanging that fixed rope on the approach to Back Off, made it a lot easier. We hooked tools on the bottom of Squash Head reaching as high as possible, seemed solid, tempted to try it, but decided that it was iffy for safety and also did not want to damage it for future climbers.
We went up to Back Off instead, 1st pitch had lots of bad ice, so did lower angle portion of second pitch, buldges here and there protectable with stubbies. the vertical section looked ok but not great, was not sure if it would protect with standard length screws and we were running out of time so I traversed to the rap chains at the bottom of the vertical section of pitch 2. Took some mixed climbing and risking a big pendulum to get to them to bail.
I am from California and hoping to get back when the ice is in better!
Hope you knee heals quickly.

Travisstull wrote:We hooked tools on the bottom of Squash Head reaching as high as possible, seemed solid, tempted to try it, but decided that it was iffy for safety and also did not want to damage it for future climbers.

I was just about to post about Squash Head. That lower pillar has a bad habit of breaking off when it first forms. Sometimes it drops a few inches and reforms, sometimes it falls all the way over, sometimes it just...leans. Be cautious if it hasn't fully made a connection with the ground.

Provo canyon ice is coming in nicely. It was 10 deg F at 4:30 today.

Stairway:

Bridal Veil and associates:



There was another climb that I don't know the name of that looked pretty fat. Anyone know what this is?


and from down low:


I'm dying to get out with someone. Should be free for most of the weekend . . .

^^^ Looks like the Fang.

Yeah that is the Fang. What looks odd is that the left side at the top. Seems like the flow in creek has shifted a bit.

First pitch of CCC Falls was great ice:

CCC Falls 1/1/14

Second Pitch was pretty well cooked:
CCC Falls 1/1/14

Donorcicle is thin and very steep, but climbable:
Donorcicle 1/1/14

Deadbolt was looking alright from the quick drive by.

Huntington's got game too.
Wonderwall 1/1/14

Was on storm mountain yesterday. Due to having 2 harnesses for 3 guys we only climbed the 1st pitch. But it would go to the top.
Climbed the left variation as well. Both are in but lean in volume so climbing was full value.

Found a screw and biner left in the pitch. Message me with a description and you can have them back.

Thanks for all the great posts with pictures and route information. Cool to see some of this is in and so nice.

I have a friend who is in town for a few days. HE's interested in doing some ice climbing. We just came back from 6 days in Ouray and Colorado, and I know he wants more. I have to fly out of SLC tomorrow (Sat, 1/3), so can no longer climb with him.

He's looking for a partner.

He has a full rock rack, about 8 screws, rope, all his requisite gear, and access to a car.
3 years ice climbing experience, but limited lead going up to WI 2+. He has followed up to WI5. Partner who can lead preferrable.

If you want to climb with him and need a partner this weekend (1/3-4), please send a message to my account and we can get phone numbers going.

Thanks for everything,
Taylor

Quick update, was in Joe's yesterday:

CCC
It was wet but, very protectable. The second ptich has formed farther to the right than I am used to seeing. However, it has a 20 cm (at it's shallowest) that goes the entire length of the smear. This was clutch for me, meant that I could get a screw in before topping out.

Donor
We climbed it at 11 and it was bullet ice - shattered with every swing/kick and was very squeaky. Screws were spewing powder out of the core. It is very steep - I am comfortable on steep ice but, this was the steepest I had ever seen this route. At its narrowest, I would say it is 1m in diameter.

Melty Way
I haven't climbed this route in years... the lower pitch never seems to be in when I am 'weekend warrioring'. The top-out on the business pitch (pitch 1 depending how you count) was starting to separate from the wall - A quick stem onto the rock and went fine. The remaining pitches were great 'rambly' fun.

Donorcicle

Plastic Ice on Melty Way

Did you guys lead Donor? If so, what rating would you give it? (I'm in an Xtremely "Future of the Earth Depends upon it" debate about grades & grading ice climbs with someone…) Actually wondering if you guys lead the upper pitch of CCC as well (we were just behind you.)