Adding anchors at Rumbling Bald
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Be Esperanza wrote:I do support the placement of a modern two bolt anchor with rings at the ledge, for the purpose of saving the tree.This seems like the best solution to me. Shortening a pitch with anchors at a height 40ft lower than the established anchors, all to allow top roping, has got to be a first at Rumbling Bald. However, adding and changing out tat and trampling the roots and soil at the base of a tree isn't the ideal long-term solution either. Any anchors added to the top of the established pitches would be invisible from the ground, accessible via the walk up to the ledge, and would last much longer than the current set-up. |
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I think when you make the blanket assertion that "the use of any and all trees is bad and should never be done"...well, that's a very slippery slope. The pine beetle damage at T Wall necessitated the installation of rap rings. Otherwise, a good stout tree with slings and ring is as good as it gets. When that changes, then I fully advocate the installation of anchors. There are lots and lots (and LOTS)of routes in NC and TN, heck everywhere, that end at trees. |
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I have climbed both of these routes and I know for a fact that I set up a TR on both of them. I don't remember how, but I know I did it and I did it right after another party of people pulled their top ropes. |
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Chris Watford wrote:I think when you make the blanket assertion that "the use of any and all trees is bad and should never be done"...well, that's a very slippery slope. The pine beetle damage at T Wall necessitated the installation of rap rings. Otherwise, a good stout tree with slings and ring is as good as it gets. When that changes, then I fully advocate the installation of anchors. There are lots and lots (and LOTS)of routes in NC and TN, heck everywhere, that end at trees.How is it a slippery slope? Generally and in almost every scenario I can come up with trees should not be used as regular anchor source for a route IF you care about environmental impacts of climbing. Simply the act of slinging them contributes to soil compaction which, contributes to erosion which, exposes roots which, lead to dead trees. Or there's the wear on the bark... Its really pretty simple, talk to an environmental scientist. Loss of topsoil and trees = loss of habitat and environmental destruction. Drilling two holes in a rock = 0 ecosystem impact. Feel free to come to CT and see what slinging sturdy trees does to them at climbing cliffs. obv if this is a remote cliff that no one goes to it probably doesn't matter but if its a regularly used crag, thinking that it doesn't matter is naive, shortsighted and far from a traditional conservative ethic. |
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To the OP, welcome to mountainproject. Congratulations on your FIRST post! If you didn't want a heated discussion, maybe you should have a chose a topic that is less controversial and polarizing as placing bolts on an established climb. Seriously though, who are you? The trad climbing community is quite small in NC, especially for those that should be doing these sort of projects. The fact that you chose Fine Line/Drivin' as your first candidate for a top anchor shows you have climbed very little at the Bald. There are much better candidates for this type of upgrade than a climb with an established walk off. Not to mention you wanted to do it at 30M! If you are just psyched on drilling something, find someone you are attracted to. |
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Give me a break on the pity party. This is the internet, grow some thicker skin. You don't need proper credentials to fix problems locally. It is just that this is your first post ever, you show a lack of experience with RB, and you start your first post off with "I am about to bolt anchors on an established climb with a walk-off, any objections" (my interpretation). I have to believe that if nobody had responded in a day or two, you would have probably done it. Boulders have been bolted, trad climbs have been bolted, climbs have been retroed/neutered, bolts added against land manager instructions, etc... So some people have done some crazy stuff locally all in the name of self-interest and then branded as utilitarian, so my knee-jerk reaction is warranted. |
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Andy, |
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I thought it was funny when I clicked on the rebolting link for the CCC that I got "access denied" |
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Mark O'Neal wrote:I thought it was funny when I clicked on the rebolting link for the CCC that I got "access denied"Yes, you have to have an account on the web site in order to post to the rebolting database. Otherwise things get over run with spam. A lot of time has been spent (mostly by me) dealing with the spam bots and that is one of the things that helps control it. Creating an account is free. Maybe think about joining the CCC while you're there? |
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Chris Whisenhunt we should invite Rudaw down to the Bald! |
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Save the anchor bolts for capt. Crunch.!! If anything at rumbling needs an anchor it's that climb. |
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So I don't have time to read all the blah blah (or patience) but it sounds like you've got Tom fired up. I back Tom. So no convenience bolts. |
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From my perspective, it didn't take too much to get Tom fired up. I was actually near this area the other day. I peeked over at the tree that's used for the anchor. The tree is pretty big, and so I officially retract my support of a bolted anchor on this ledge for the purpose of "saving the tree" because I don't think the tree is really in any danger of dying. I'm not a botanist, but of all the anchors at the bald that could use some modernizing, this one isn't a priority IMHO. |
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From my perspective Tom was pretty damn patient with that dumb shit. I'm not as familiar with the anchors you're talking about now. But you should ask nicely. Tom is the nice guy to talk to. Super supportive and really passionate about the climbing around here. Great guy for beta as well. I'm not the nicer guy. So don't piss Tom off! |
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Speaking of bolts Be... how about 1 more on gorilla tactics? Wouldn't that route be so much more fun? I can't get Nathan to even talk about it (get further in the thread and I'm a jackass cause he responded months ago). That would be a badass route all sport and it's one bolt away. Not like 3 or anything just 1 |
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Thanks Evan. I only got fired up when they started calling my statements egotistical or elitist. You hit it right on, it is about being passionate. I love this place and often miss it traveling to other areas that don't have the same standards. Now that the OP has deleted all of his posts, it kind of looks like I was having a conversation with myself. Successfully trolled! |
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Convenience anchors are awesome. Shortening the climb would be lame. |
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Op, thanks for putting this out to the community before acting. Obviously, you knew it might get some flashback from people. |
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wes calkins wrote: All anchors are "convenience anchors".What about gear anchors? I'd try to stay away from generalizations like this because they're often wrong. Like saying, all trad climbers are crusty old white men... it's just as wrong as the statement you made. |
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Jonathan Dull wrote: ...it's called not being a pussy I love seeing threads like this! NC TRADness!!!haha, you got me there... not sure what 'not being a pussy' has to do with ecosytem conservation which was the point of that comment. Sounds like an insult an uneducated frat boy would sling at college party trying to impress the girl in the corner! |