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Cochise advice

Original Post
Jacob Schmidt · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 110

I'm planning my first trip down to the stronghold this winter. Any recommendations for good introductory routes? I have Geir's topos and have done a decent amount of reading on the area. What are the best protected routes for someone's first time?

sean o · · Northern, NM · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 48

I've only been there once, but Ewephoria (5.7) on Sheepshead is essentially all bolted, so that's easy to protect. The approach is fairly short, and there are plenty of harder routes nearby if you want.

"What's my line" (5.6) is a super-fun route, and protects well if you know how to trucker-hitch giant chickenheads. This is a skill you should probably learn if you climb much in Cochise, anyways.

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

What difficulty level are you thinking of? Are you comfortable placing gear? This will help with suggesting routes for you. :)

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

If you want a bolted route, head to the sport cliffs like Isle of Ewe or Zappa Wall etc. Ewephoria's first pitch is all gear and the bolts are fairly spread out on the rest of it.

The Sheepshead has a lot of routes, Ewephoria is one of them, and many have a lot of bolts but generally there are no pure sport climbs on the cliff, unless something has changed.

Like Geir said, what level are you looking to climb?

Jacob Schmidt · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 110

I'm looking for 5.6-5.7 range for this trip anyway. Ewephoria and What's my line have been on my list. I've placed gear on 5.9 single pitch and 5.6 multipitch, so the first pitch of Ewephoria seems do able.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

You asked for well protected. Ewephoria is a bit runout but easier than most of the stuff on Sheepshead. Whats My Line is also good.

Those would be great introductory climbs. Ewephoria is a nice walk off, don't bother rapping.

Have fun!

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

First pitch of Ewephoria is awkward and polished, back then I was still concerned about sandbagging things and convinced myself it was about 5.8, today I'd probably call it 5.9

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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