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Hangboard training

Original Post
Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

So I am following the Rock Prodigy training book/plan, and using the Trango board. I started with the jug as a warmup, with no weight. Then I go to the large edge for two sets. After 4 days of hangboard sets, I went from 15lb (and barely able to do it) to now doing 40lb today on the 4th set. So, at what point do you switch to another hold instead of adding more weight? I'm currently doing the large edge. small edge, MR shallow pocket, IM deep pocket, IMR pocket, and wide pinch. Should I stay with the large edge for the sake of record keeping, or switch to another hold?
I'm planning to do 8-10 hangboard sets, depending on when the plateau comes in, so I'm only half-way done with my sets.

SCherry · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 647

The website that the Anderson Bro's have is good for answers to this stuff. I found a bunch of good info there when I started their program.

I think he mentions somewhere that you should switch to smaller grips when you approach the 40-50lb threshold with added weights.

Personally I find it much more productive to use smaller grips and take weight off (using the pulley) than to add weight to grips I can hold easily. I think the idea here is to train the fingers to hold smaller grips, but ultimately it depends on what you are training for (jug hauls vs. crimpy boulder problems)

Ben Dubs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 16

I stumbled across this the other night when trying to figure out why my open hand and full crimp are extremely strong (relatively speaking) but my pinch and half crimp are embarrassing.

en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2…

If I understand correctly and apply this to periodization it is beneficial to train with weight added over weight removed for the hangboard phase (~4 weeks) and then bring that strength to your power phase (small rung campusing and limit bouldering at body weight).

Personally if I do not add more than 30lb to my HB and would opt for a smaller grip. However for half crimp I'm removing 45 lb on the beastmaker 2000 small crimp which I will be tweaking to align with Eva's info for January HB phase, however I'm not sure I could do less than that regardless of the half crimp size. (I use a prodigy board and 2000).

Just finished a boulder cycle and I certainly hit my best grades yet. On the rest phase and I'm going nuts not being able to climb, but trust the system! And I agree with scherry, it depends on what your training for/goals are.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Thanks for the thoughts! Yea, I hit 30 or more lbs on two grips, so I'm thinking I'll downsize the grips and the weight. Smith rock is my primary crag of choice, so small crimps is the norm! Maybe I'll add in the really small crimp with weight removed and go from there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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