Ethics vs Morals

Tim Lutz wrote:Sure... Thats what stickclips are for.

I found this awesome undiscovered crag one time. It was the only crag in the area and consisted of really fun 5.9-5.12 overhung face climbing between 60-100 ft. Since I spent all my time rock climbing, I climb up to the 5.14d range but also don't have that much money.

Anyways, I was psyched and wanted to climb everything there, but only had enough money for like 100 bolts, which was only like 2 bolts per route plus anchors. So I put bolts here and there, no big deal since climbing 5.9-5.12 to me was pretty easy. Good thing I'm so strong! By the way, since I climb 5.14+, it is sometimes hard for me to distinguish where cruxes would be for a 5.9 or 5.10 climber, so sorry if the bolts aren't ideally located. Oh well!

If you would like to climb the routes but feel like they are dangerous, ridiculous, and like I ruined them for all future climbers, too bad, you probably are just too much of a pansy, and you should take up other safer hobbies like baking or cross-stitching. Instead of whining, you should strive to achieve by level of strength, skill, and boldness. Since I climbed them first, naturally that means I am the sole decision maker. Public property my ass! Also in my will, power over them will pass to my wife, who I have instructed to not let them be altered.

mattjohnson wrote:I found this awesome undiscovered crag one time. It was the only crag in the area and consisted of really fun 5.9-5.12 overhung face climbing between 60-100 ft. Since I spent all my time rock climbing, I climb up to the 5.14d range but also don't have that much money. Anyways, I was psyched and wanted to climb everything there, but only had enough money for like 100 bolts, which was only like 2 bolts per route plus anchors. So I put bolts here and there, no big deal since climbing 5.9-5.12 to me was pretty easy. Good thing I'm so strong! By the way, since I climb 5.14+, it is sometimes hard for me to distinguish where cruxes would be for a 5.9 or 5.10 climber, so sorry if the bolts aren't ideally located. Oh well! If you would like to climb the routes but feel like they are dangerous, ridiculous, and like I ruined them for all future climbers, too bad, you probably are just too much of a pansy, and you should take up other safer hobbies like baking or cross-stitching. Instead of whining, you should strive to achieve by level of strength, skill, and boldness. Since I climbed them first, naturally that means I am the sole decision maker. Public property my ass! Also in my will, power over them will pass to my wife, who I have instructed to not let them be altered.

Christian wrote:Do not be the girly men, it worked out well for Arnie... youtube.com/watch?v=SUzUbtI…

My personal pet peeve is people who rap bolt sport routes, but bolt them in an unsafe manner. Ie. going from the 2nd to 3rd bolt you are going to hit the ground if you fall.

I could understand if it was put up ground-up and those were the only good stances to drill from, but it's sport climbing and you are rap-bolting. If you are going to all that trouble, why not make a route that is relatively safe?...

I see this a lot and it just makes no sense to me...

Brad Gone wrote: Word.

Eric Engberg wrote: I think someone needs a better satire detector.

Here is why sport climbs, especially everything under 5.11 should be bolted safely, no gimmicks. I have to work 12 hour shifts on my feet and constantly lift patients 36 hour a week. You would think medical professionals have a good health insurance , nope. Mine sucks. Even though we are subjected to a plethora of diseases and physical stress. So spare me. Stop thinking like you are some kind of a saint trying to save those bold climbs. Climbing is mainstream now. And are you gonna pay my bills?...didn't think so.

We both do a lot to live the life we live and shift our priorities accordingly to afford the new gear and the upkeep of the existent gear, to afford gas and allocate time for travels and training. It ain't all that simple and easy. Far from easy go lucky bums we are in constant search of new opportunities that would be conducive to the adventures we will be planning to have in the area, constant readjustment and reorganization depending on the season. We are very grateful for the life and opportunities we have, just don't be throwing that "climb bold" shit around. Times are not the same and like I said, climbing is main stream now. It's only a rock after all. No time for all that bs.

Jake Jones wrote:STFU. Seriously.