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5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 18 votes
Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Hank Levine & Dag Kolsrud 1978 |
Page Views: | 2,701 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Will S on Apr 9, 2007 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This very nice looking crack in a shallow right facing corner quickly opens up from fingers in pods to a perfect handcrack to the top. The approach has to be the only reason this gets no stars in the guides. If this were in the campground it would get done 10x per day. While short, the approach is tricky. Chimney moves can help down low where the corner is deeper and almost trough-like.
Location
Getting to this route may be the true crux. You can approach from the Houser Buttress or from Solosby. Facing Houser Buttress, there is a boulder filled gully system to the right of Dodo's Delight, about 150' right of Houser Buttress itself. Scramble, tunnel, and boulder hop up this gully. As it narrows into a corridor, keep your eye on the left side (north facing walls) looking for a face with two distinct crack lines about 50' apart. Midway between them is a fingercrack/seam that ends about 25' shy of the top. The route is an obvious, gorgeous looking handcrack that starts as small pods in the back of a trough and quickly changes to perfect hands in a shallow/narrowing right facing corner.
Another way to approach is from Solosby Wall. This gully system is almost directly behind Solosby. Facing Latin Swing, walk out the left end of the corridor and up onto the flat area just after the corridor ends. Scramble down and left on the path of least resistance (somewhat tricky). The route is clearly visible early in the descent as a straight-up handcrack.
Another way to approach is from Solosby Wall. This gully system is almost directly behind Solosby. Facing Latin Swing, walk out the left end of the corridor and up onto the flat area just after the corridor ends. Scramble down and left on the path of least resistance (somewhat tricky). The route is clearly visible early in the descent as a straight-up handcrack.
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