Crampon recommendations for approach shoes?

Hey folks,

Looking at doing an alpine rock trip next summer that will involve some long approaches, possibly with the occasional snow field. Would like to wear my approach shoes and put a crampon on them, when needed. I have a set of the green lightweight CAMP strap on crampons, and figure that these will work, but I am a little concerned since my approach shoes are flexible, and the linking bar is not... Would I be better off with something like the Grivel G10 that has a flexi link bar, or am I just falling for a marketing gimmick?

Thanks!

You definitely want something that flexes. The classic SMC hinged crampons are pretty foolproof.

I wear Hillsounds (Trail Crampon Pro) over my trail runners with great success - I climbed Mt. Ritter from Lake Catherine with this combination last summer without issue. I like their design better than Kahtoola's and would wear them on Rainier or anything less technical.

After breaking the linking bar on one of my Al Camps, they sent me a pair of SS bars, which I had to modify slightly. I haven't had any trouble since.

Kahtoola is what you want. For lightweight applications, i.e. snowfields and light approaches the Microspikes are awesome. They come on and come off in about 3 seconds, are super sturdy and really grippy. If you want something a little more technical and capable go with the KTS Hiking Crampons. I think one of the Sherpa with one of the recent speed records on Everest was wearing a set of these. They have a patented link bar that is super flexible, but at the same time super sturdy.

kahtoola.com/

^ +1

And carry an extra tent stake for self-arrest (just kidding, although I believe it's been done...)

If it's just the occasional snowfield the green Camp aluminum crampons will be fine with approach shoes. I used them on the Teton Grand Traverse last year and they worked well. They even managed a bit of easy front-pointing up bare ice, which I couldn't have done with micro-spikes.

I picked up a pair of the Grivel Air Tech Light crampons and they work very well with my La Sportiva Boulders. The air techs have a flexible linking bar and I was pleasantly surprised how secure the fit was.

Great recommendations. Thanks to all for the feedback. Much obliged.

Josh Janes wrote:I wear Hillsounds (Trail Crampon Pro) over my trail runners with great success - I climbed Mt. Ritter from Lake Catherine with this combination last summer without issue. I like their design better than Kahtoola's and would wear them on Rainier or anything less technical.

I've had good luck on snow and glaciers for years with a pair of KTS on trail runners, and they'll get you pretty far (e.g. standard routes on Shuksan, Challenger). I haven't tried the Hillsounds, but I'd be a bit concerned that the front part of the attachment strap doesn't look adjustable, which might cause a problem getting them snug on approach shoes. OTOH, they might be more comfortable and secure than the KTS when side-hilling.

Resurrecting this thread to see if there's anything better/different available now three years down the line...? If there's a more current relavent thread, please share link.

While folks with the experience are on this thread anyways, what's a good lightweight tool to go along with these type of crampons? Main application being summer alpine approaches, but would be excellent to double for ski moountaineering. Thanks in advance!

I use a camp corsa axe and I the Petzl Leopard crampons look sweet

Anyone have experience with the Petzl Leopard? They sound amazing but wondering if practically they are ok?

I don't think things have changed much; I still wouldn't go for super-light aluminum crampons, but people do use them.  Axe-wise, I "upgraded to" (i.e. found) a Petzl Sum-Tec this summer, which is only 470g, and was pleasantly surprised by how useful and easy it was to slide the pinky-rest into and out of place when alternately plunging and swinging/dry-tooling it.

Stever wrote: Anyone have experience with the Petzl Leopard? They sound amazing but wondering if practically they are ok?

Not the Leopard but I recently got the Irvis Hybrid and a flex front bail and they are the tits for softer than boot shoes. You don't get the same weird feel that comes from strapping a flexible shoe to a rigid crampon. Also with getting the front flex attachment you can put them on any kind of footwear from ski boots to trail runners. 

I've been scoping Petzl's Glacier Literide axe because of it's attractive weight and price, plus versatility to also be excellent for ski mountaineering. The Camp Corsa is unmatched in weight but seems relegated to a small niche of only light duty approaches and winter/spring hiking. It would be great to hear that folks happily use the Corsa for more. The Petzl Sum-Tec seems like a great versatile axe, but at the cost of 50% more weight and 2x the price (compared to the Literide), is it worth it if there's no need for swinging like a technical tool?

Maybe check out the Petzl Gully too. Lighter than the Literide (9.8 oz) yet has a reverse curve steel pick for occasionally swinging like a tool. Strikes a balance between the Sum’tec and Literide/Ride. I picked one up last year for ski mountaineering and alpine climbs in which finding a little snow or ice is a high probability. The head is definitely too light (without the pick weights at least) for getting sticks in serious ice, but so far it’s worked very well, even for the glacial ice I more-often encounter. Probably less versatile than the Sum’tec (can’t replace picks or customize head), but more versatile than the Literide or Ride (in the sense you can plunge and swing it quite easily). More importantly, especially when considering whether or not to bring it on an alpine rock climb, is how freakin’ light it is. I fear something like a Sum’tec (which is heavier than a full length ice axe) would be left behind more often than not.

Stever wrote: Anyone have experience with the Petzl Leopard? They sound amazing but wondering if practically they are ok?

I've been using the leopard for the last 2 seasons and love them. They pack down to the size of a cord bundle and feel like they weigh around the same. They are prone to slipping if you're using a softer approach shoe, so I've been pairing them with something like the millet super trident GTX.

 They are very practical if you are on snowfields, and I have taken them up some pretty steep gullies but would choose a different setup entirely if on steep, icier terrain. Particularly the boots. 

Ben Meisburger wrote: Maybe check out the Petzl Gully too. Lighter than the Literide (9.8 oz) yet has a reverse curve steel pick for occasionally swinging like a tool. Strikes a balance between the Sum’tec and Literide/Ride. I picked one up last year for ski mountaineering and alpine climbs in which finding a little snow or ice is a high probability. The head is definitely too light (without the pick weights at least) for getting sticks in serious ice, but so far it’s worked very well, even for the glacial ice I more-often encounter. Probably less versatile than the Sum’tec (can’t replace picks or customize head), but more versatile than the Literide or Ride (in the sense you can plunge and swing it quite easily). More importantly, especially when considering whether or not to bring it on an alpine rock climb, is how freakin’ light it is. I fear something like a Sum’tec (which is heavier than a full length ice axe) would be left behind more often than not.

Thanks for tuning me on to the Gully. Have you practiced or had to execute self arrest with it? That seems to be the primary drawback to the reverse curve. Otherwise seems like an awesome option!

The Petzl crampons with cord instead of a linking bar are stellar on approach shoes.

Edit: I remembered they're called it is hybrid. Steel front section aluminum back.  They're just great with approach shoes but also if you use them with real boots you can easily climb WI3 and higher.