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V-Thread

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Colt2056 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 15

Do you place V-Threads horizontal or vertical? It seems like from what I've read that most people place them horizontally, but ice cracks horizontally so wouldn't a vertical V-Thread be better?

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

either way works, vertically is generally accepted to be stronger in case the ice dinner plates with a horizontal fracture

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Read Warbonnet's post on V vs A:

mountainproject.com/v/ice-s…

Colt2056 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks! Good info.

RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

Either way works well, but unless you have a BD first shot, I've found drilling them in the "A" configuration is a PITA.

The other thing to consider is how the ice has formed. If it's very candled, you may be able to "Capture" more ice in the V formation vs A.

If you're interested in the actual strength differences, here are a couple other links to check out. Long, but informative.
V- vs A- threads
Anchor Strength

Chris Mills · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Conversely, I find vertical threads much easier to link first time. I have nothing to back this up, but I think it's easier to keep a screw in a vertical orientation than horizontal.

If you're interested, I normally make my threads with a 22cm screw, then thread with 1 1/2 metres of 9/16ths tubuluar webbing. But that's just me.

Colt2056 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 15

how come people thread their V or A thread with webbing or accessory cord instead of just using the rope? is the rope too hard to pull when you thread the rope straight through the ice? or is it just easier to leave cord or webbing behind? I would assume on a popular route after the ice is gone you would end up with a pile of tat.

Chris Mills · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

If I am rapping on good, cold ice, I will just thread my rope through the ice. But there's always a danger of the rope freezing in place, especially if there's running water. Also, if the ice is a little bit dodgy, you might want to equalise two threads, which isn't so easy if you're just threading the rope. But no, you're right, a lot of the time, I wlll just thread the rope through the threads. A lot easier than the retrievable screw trick...

Colt2056 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 15

So you more often then not use A threads and use only the rope? Do you pull the rope from the bottom leg of the A thread or the top? And the retrievable screw, isn't that a screw hole bored out smooth so you can flick the screw out after rappel ? . . . Sketchy.

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100
Colt2056 wrote:So you more often then not use A threads and use only the rope? Do you pull the rope from the bottom leg of the A thread or the top? And the retrievable screw, isn't that a screw hole bored out smooth so you can flick the screw out after rappel ? . . . Sketchy.
Usually use an A-thread with just the rope and I think I tend to thread it from the top..Just seems a little easier for me. Instead of threading cord and then leaving a ring or binder and to have it only melt out and fall why not just thread your climbing rope and rap directly off the thread? I've never had a problem with it. Granted I've only been ice climbing 4 or 5 years, not decades of experience.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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