CAMP pro and biners: quality and value (?)

Hi all,

I'm looking into passive pro and alpine draws. CAMP seem to be the only manufacturer of tri-cams (which I want). They also have a set of dyneema slung hexes which seem very much like they are the same as the Wild Country Rockcentrics. They've got a set of nuts that appear to be quite an interesting design and may compliment the DMM Wallnuts I already have. Then there's the Orbit wire straight gate carabiners, which look simple and effective for racking and making alpine draws (shoulder length slings will likely be bought from bluewater).

So can anyone comment on the quality of their products and the value for money? They don't seem to be a particularly popular brand from what I've seen on racks so far, but just because something's not popular, doesn't mean it's not good.

And please, please don't tell me not to get hexes or tri-cams. I've already made up my mind on that score. I seem to have a knack for placing passive pro that just doesn't translate to SLCDs. So those will come later.

CAMP makes some good gear. I've got photon wires on all my cams (lightweight full size biner), and I swing X-all Mountains. Tricams are great, enjoy them.

Not a fan of CAMP soft goods, but their hard goods are great and don't seem to last any more or less than other large competitors.

I have dmm wall nuts and camp pro nuts. The neat thing is the colors scheme is pretty close so if you identify gear by color it helps and it's a good set to complement with only 7 in the set (also get dmm offset alloys they are nice too). I also have tri cams from camp. Tri cam Evos are nice do to the new design of being able to set like a nut. The regular ones I have up to I believe size 3 or 4, and I don't think I'll ever use them just get to size two or the blue tricam if your going to go out of a "set" Just get the evos and the dyneema tricam set it's all you will need.

Thanks guys. I guess I'll go with CAMP for the majority of my passive rack. I'm going to get carabiners for me alpine draws, and I'll get some of their pro nuts. I'll start with just a set of tri-cams and see how it goes. I've heard differing opinions about the dyneema vs nylon strung versions; must research more. I'm not sure I see much value in the extra placement possibilities of the evo tri-cams though. It seems like a nut with a good taper for a fit in the secondary position fills this roll just fine. Or am I wrong? I suppose if the price isn't much different it would be better to have the option than not have it though.

I know most people don't like hexes, but for those who do, wire slung or dyneema? Seems like the wires may maintain strength longer, but don't start as strong. The wire allows the potential for easier placement (or so I've read) but would be less appropriate running over edges.

John, that gotta me going man! :D

I have both wired and slung hexes and I prefer the wired. Easier to grab off your harness and easier to place and clean.

I have both Photon and Nano carabiners and love them.

If you have the walnuts ... Get the dmm offsets or WC superlights as extras

The color coding is the same

While camp nuts work, the horizontal grooves are unusual and theres no real advantage to them over the walnuts ... One of my partners have em and shes switching to wallnuts

;)

A lot of this stuff depends on where you are in the world.

For instance, grivel used to have a nice following in the US and was well respected, then they lost their US distributor in the 90s and it seems many younger climbers think grivel is Walmart quality gear. To those climbers only two companies make great gear, Petzl and BD.

Camp makes some nice stuff. They've often resold some other companies gear with tweaks. Like at one time they resold BD hexes with dyneema or cord. They no longer do this. A few people I know who are guides actually think Camp makes some of the best gear on the market, using quite a bit of their gear in the winter months.

As far as tricams. I own two sets, and I've actually fallen on them. Not sure why you'd even ask about them as a quality piece. In fact, I no longer carry 12 or 13 BD nuts. Passively they are a bit weaker but I feel the flexibility offsets that in the rare cases I actually need a 12 or 13 nut.

Placing hexes above your head is psychologically a benefit, but rarely is it optimal.

I don't use hexes a lot, except in winter and on easy alpine terrain, when I don't bother with cams. I also use them for top roping, rather than beat up my cams. Personally, I think BD hexes are pretty crappy compared to curved hexes but they are what I have so, I cut the wires and reslung them on sterling 5.9mm power cord.

I ended up going a little shorter than I intended (didn't account for the cord lost in the hex itself) but my cord is about 18in and should negate the need for runners in many instances.

It also allows you more flexibility in placing them in a cam mode vs 100% passively, although BD hexes really lack the benefits of camping that DMM hexes have.

In theory they can also double as a runner if I run out.

Imo, slung hexes are superior, but I also don't consider myself a hexpert. I've actually forced myself to learn to use them because while a cam is often superior, there are times when a hex is a better option. And there are times when a cam isn't an option.

Thank you guys again. Very helpful.