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Best 5.10 lead to break into the grade at Devils lake

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,215

"Green Slime" is a very well protected lead most of the way.... it just has those 5.9ish entrance moves with no great gear....

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,668

Didn't Jay write a whole essay on the DL "except for"?

Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 761

The one that looks the most inspiring when you're standing beneath it.

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
Ralph Swansen wrote:The one that looks the most inspiring when you're standing beneath it.
While I agree with the principle expressed here...practically speaking, at Devil's Lake at least, most routes 5.10 and above have finicky, or downright bad gear. There are, however, a select few that have reasonably straightforward and solid gear, and I think that is what most of the respondents are trying to point the OP to. Or at least give him a list of decent options, so that he can then select his inspiring line from a list of PG or PG/PG13 routes. As you can see that list is relatively short, given that Devil's Lake has 1700+ (admittedly some contrived squeeze jobs contribute to that number) roped climbing routes.
Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 761

^^^ Understood. Gear on a route certainly affects my inspiration levels! Especially when pushing my lead grade.

mike526 · · schaumburg · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Anyone have a good picture of this route that they would be willing to share. Something i could print out and hang up for motivation while i am training and working out?

mike526 · · schaumburg · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

of sometimes crack i should have said

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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