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Elevation: 1,035 ft
GPS: 43.51347, -71.17278
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Shared By: mr. mystery on May 22, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Devils Den in New Durham, NH is composed of 4 main cliff areas ranging from 40-75 feet. The area also draws attention from many hikers. The area offers a variety of hiking trails as well as "The Devils Den Cave". The top of the crag provides great views of Lake Winnipesaukee and the surrounding mountains. There are signs of previous local climbers who have left anchors on old trad routes and a few mixed routes. The den saw the bulk of its development in 2008.

The Cave Wall was probably the first wall developed at The Den. It offers a few questionable trad routes.Up and [climbers]right of this wall is another 20+ foot wall which has some good easy routes and some bouldering opportunites.
The Slab Wall is the most popular wall at The Den due to its height and moderate classic steep slab climbs. This wall also ices up in the winter and make for several nice ice climbs.
The Land of Overhangs is characterized by its steep climbing with mixed roof systems. It offers wild and exciting moves on good rock.
Between the Land of Overhangs and the Outback Wall are outcrops offering a variety of short climbs.
The Outback Wall has numerous technical steep sport and mixed routes. This wall has excellent rock quality with a beautiful setting. This wall also holds many of the area classics.

I also want to thank all the locals who have put in a lot of time and effort at THE DEN.

Getting There Suggest change

2020 uodate-

The approach from Rines Road is now manageable with any AWD vehicle. Drive down Rines Road from Rt 28 past the gate/ parking for Longstack/Rines until it turns into a single-lane bridge. Drive past an old cemetery, then a parking area on the left, until you reach a clear junction. Take a right and go up the hill for a ways, until you reach another junction with signs.  Take another right and continue until you see a gate on the right and a sandy road behind it. Park here. You can either walk on the sandy road for several hundred feet and look for a path on the left going uphill that goes to the Cave Wall, OR (easier to follow) --from the parking area just walk five minutes up the road you were driving, uphill, until you reach a trail marked with an Eagle Scout project informational kiosk on the right (at the height of land). This will take you to the Outback Wall after about another 5 minutes. 

In total, the drive in from rt 28 can be done in about 15 minutes, with another 8-10 minutes of approach. Much better than 45 minutes of walking from the original access road. The trails along the cliff are in great condition and the walls are begging to be climbed! -JB 10-2020

July 2018 NOTE: The "Class 6" road mentioned below and in the Chinos Guidebook is CLOSED TO VEHICLES AT THE GATE; thus requiring at least an additional 1 1/2 mile walk.  I say "at least" because there is also "No Parking" signs around the gate, although when we were there a pickup was parked there. Speaking with more "local" climbers at Longstaff, this seems to have been the status for a couple of years now; hence unlikely to change. R Hall NH Admin.

To get to Devils Den from the South: From Route 16 north and take Exit 15 "Lake Winnipesaukee". Follow Route 11 northwest to the Alton Traffic Circle. Head straight through getting on Route 28 north. Take Drew Hill Road on the right just after the Alton Flats. Take a left onto Hayes Road. Turn right past a gate 100 feet after the pavement ends (marked by ATV signs). Follow this Class 6 road (cars can make it!) veering left at a fork, follow for 1.5 miles to a pullout on the right with 2 good sized cairns. Park and walk uphill on a logging road for 4 minutes. The road will lead you to the base of the slab wall and the cave wall will be to your right. (There are many pulloffs on the way in if you choose to walk. A bike is also a nice fast way to get there.)

From the North: Take Route 16 south to Ossipee. Turn right onto Route 28 south just before the stop light. Follow Route 28 through Wolfeboro. Turn left onto Drew Hill Road a couple miles after it turns back to highway. Take a left onto Hayes Road. Turn right past a gate 100 feet after the pavement ends.[marked by ATV signs] Follow this Class 6 road (cars can make it!) veering left at a fork, follow for 1.5 miles to a pullout on the right with 2 good sized cairns. Park and walk uphill on a logging road for 4 minutes. The road will lead you to the base of the slab wall and the cave wall will be to your right. (There are many pulloffs on the way in if you choose to walk. A bike is also a nice fast way to get there.)

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Den

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
People of the Sun
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 11
Joy Ride
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Hellraiser
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Cloak + Dagger
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
The Edge
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Hole in the Roof
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Syd's Slab
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Fools Gold
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Stolen
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Secret Agent
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Go-Go Gadget Arm
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Visual - Eyes
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
Hidden Treasure
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Hysteria
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
Devil Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
People of the Sun Slab Wall
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Joy Ride Slab Wall
 11
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Hellraiser Slab Wall
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cloak + Dagger Slab Wall
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Edge Outback Wall
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hole in the Roof Land of Overhangs
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Syd's Slab Slab Wall
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Fools Gold Land of Overhangs
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Stolen Slab Wall
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Secret Agent Outback Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Go-Go Gadget Arm Land of Overhangs
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Visual - Eyes Outback Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hidden Treasure Outback Wall
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Hysteria Land of Overhangs
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Devil Man Outback Wall
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
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