I just moved to a town near Big Sur, where most of the bouldering is along the beach. I've heard mixed things about what to do/not to do in these environments, but the info is polarizing. Locals seem adamant about some things, one way or another. Now I'm curious...
As far as Leave No Trace goes, I assume all the same rules apply- carry in, carry out, don't trample vegetation or wildlife, etc. But coastlines are super fragile environments- so, shoes or no shoes? Chalk? Pads?
The rock is often chossy, even on established problems. I'm pretty opposed to gluing broken holds, but it's a curious question in some situations.
Most rock near me is granite, but there are some awesome sandstone formations too. I know there are established problems on these boulders, but there's that whole "climbing on wet sandstone" thing...
Some taller routes are bolted, but the bolts are junk after every 6 months thanks to the sea air and ocean spray. What do you think about bolt replacement or chopping?
Generally, I'd look to the locals if you are uncertain. Almost everywhere there is a pretty core group of folks who are driving local practices. Bolt replacement with titanium glue ins seems to be a common practice in other harsh coastal places, so that might be an option?
That's the thing- locals are all over the place with their opinions. I've been told to never wear shoes, but I see climbers all the time with shoes and chalk on the beach. Same goes for whether or not to bolt and glue.
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