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John Hettinger
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Nov 13, 2014
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Houston, Texas
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
So my question is only for an emergency situation, I was wondering what you think. I noticed how the gridlock carabiner shape is very similar to a figure 8. Here is a picture showing how the shape of a gridlocks could potentially work as a figure 8 in a worst case scenario emergency rappelling situation. I know there are other ways to rappel using only a carabiner, but since this was a method I am familiar with I was curious of the practicality if you were to drop your belay device. We tested it on a non climbing rope, and it seemed like it locked up well. Do you see any major flaws in this system?
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FrankPS
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Nov 13, 2014
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
I don't know how that would work, but I think the tried and true Munter is the way I'd rap on a big carabiner.
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DesertRat
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Nov 13, 2014
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Flagstaff, AZ
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 196
Interesting idea! Like Frank said, I'd just use the Munter. What concerns me is that location of the rivet holding the gate. It would most likely be fine, but why take the chance if you don't have to.
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Malcolm Daly
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Nov 13, 2014
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Hailey, ID
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 380
This is a good area to be thinking in -- what if -- but there are many many proven ways to rappel without a rig that work well. Look up a 'biner brake, munter, dulfersitz and carabiner wrap. They all work and have been tested. That said, my partner and I we rapping down off of Black Velvet and I dropped my rap rig. I made 3 more rappels using a #5 Tricam and a locker. It worked great! Keep thinking.
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John Hettinger
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Nov 13, 2014
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Houston, Texas
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
Thanks for the replies. I just found a great article with those rappelling hitches I was unaware of how to use. I'm going to go try them out. Thanks again.
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Eric Santos
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Nov 13, 2014
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Reno
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 30
Is there an issue with this being crossloaded or loaded on the minor axis? I'm asking for a friend.....
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mark felber
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Nov 13, 2014
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Wheat Ridge, CO
· Joined Jul 2005
· Points: 41
Cool idea, but it looks like the binder is being cross loaded to me. It's being compressed rather than pulled, but the load is still along the minor axis instead of the major axis. Probably fine for body weight on a dynamic rope, but any kind of jolt while using this technique on a low stretch rope could cause problems. Definitely creative, but my first choices for emergency rappel setups are still muenster hitch or binder brake.
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John Hettinger
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Nov 13, 2014
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Houston, Texas
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
True, cross loaded on minor axis = no Bueno. plus for testing I just flipped the figure 8 to the larger end of the carabiner and it actually squeezed the magnetic lock on one side opening it.
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Top Rope Hero
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Nov 13, 2014
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Was Estes Park, now homeless
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 1,150
"I just found a great article with those rappelling hitches I was unaware of how to use." Hey J! Why don't you post that link on this thread sos we can all get some learnin' in...
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