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Pway suggestions for low-traffic climbs

Original Post
eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,117

Now that I have the new guidebook and can more easily find climbs in Pway (after years of only being familiar with boulder natural + round pond) I was looking for some suggestions for high quality climbs in the V6-V9 range that can be found along the trails between boulder natural and round pond. I've always hiked past these boulders looking and seeing chalk but never sure what to get on. We will be spending most of our time at BN/RP so we won't have a ton of time for this in between area but I'd like to at least quickly try some climbs.

Christian Prellwitz · · Telluride, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3,824

I'd recommend most of the stuff that I show in the videos that I've posted to this site. Less trafficked climbs that are oustanding would be:

-Italian Stallion, Ghetto Knowledge, High Tech Issues (thought a lot of people get on 'Maxim', which shares starting holds)
-stuff in the Swamp Boulders/Upper River Boulder areas like 'Mouthful of Chalk', etc
-anything in the Devil's Den area other than Up In Smoke because that's all most people ever get on back there- so things like 'The Hug', 'Red Right Hand', 'Red Devil', 'A Moment Of Light', 'Ashes To Ashes', anything on the Walrus Boulder, etc.
-and pretty much everything in the Cliff Boulders area is usually pretty mellow, especially the higher up you go. nobody ever goes to the upper boulders where 'Charlie's Crack' is. except me :)
-Also, Hillside has other good lines, like 'Bloody Bath Water' and lots of other lines that nobody ever climbs on. People just climb 'Fido' and move on, even though many of the other lines are much better.

Even in Boulder Natural, you can have plenty of climbs to yourself as long as you stay away from over hyped lines like 'Terrorist', 'Ride The Lightning', etc.

Hope that helps.

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,117

Thanks Christian. I will be looking in to the first 3 you suggested for sure. I was already planning on sending Maxim anyways!

Ian McAfee · · Hooksett, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 80

Literally just watch Christian's videos and then climb what looks appealing to you. I'd echo that in that grade range walk up to Devil's Den, most everything is that grade range and very high quality.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Also in Devil's Den, Leave It to Beaver is excellent. Plate Tectonics in the Cliff boulders is unusual for the area and underrated I think.

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,117
Ian McAfee wrote:Literally just watch Christian's videos and then climb what looks appealing to you. I'd echo that in that grade range walk up to Devil's Den, most everything is that grade range and very high quality.
Where can I find his videos?

Also does anyone know how dry it will be there tomorrow? It rained all yesterday and as soon as early this morning (based on the weather report) but not supposed to rain anymore and will be sunny tomorrow starting in the morning. Its a 3 hour drive so we just want to be sure.
Ian McAfee · · Hooksett, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 80
vimeo.com/user9476259

You can definitely find dry stuff, Round Pond dries surprisingly quickly, Blair as well, Boulder Natural takes a bit more time but the day after a rain there's usually climbable stuff.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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