Type: TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,632 total · 14/month
Shared By: Optimistic on Nov 4, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


16 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Interesting and continuous face climbing up the broad "nose" just right of Ken's Crack. Boulder up to a big horizontal, then begin a series of crimpy balancy moves up to a final slabby bulge at the top.

Obviously, given its location, this must have been done many times, but it's not in the Williams Guide. The Gunks App calls it "Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" but no FA is listed. Two cruxes of fairly similar difficulty at about 15' and 25'.

The route goes essentially straight up from the start (below) to the anchors with one brief jog right at about 30'. Any hold on Ken's is too far left.

Location Suggest change

Starts about 6 feet right of Ken's, behind the big block to the right of the start of Ken's. A rope dangling from the top of Ken's without directionals will fall directly over this route.

Protection Suggest change

Toprope. Might well be leadable, but I think you would need a very large piece (#6 C4? Bigger?) to protect the first crux and then you'd definitely have some heads up sections higher up.

Photos

loading