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Buying an Ice Rack

Original Post
Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

Buying an ice rack this month. Any suggestions?

I'm thinking about 12 screws.
12 or 13 cm x 6
16 x 6
19 x 2
2 screamers
V thread tool

Any suggestions on packing screws? Should I get some more screws? Ive used the bd screws and I'm not a huge fan. Ive read good reviews on the grivel helix but haven't used them. Anybody have opinion on grivel helix 360, the new Petzl laser speed or petzl aluminum laser speed?

Fortunately price is not an object.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0
Seth Kane wrote:3x10 cm 7x 13 cm 3x 16 cm 1x 22 cm I like BDs, I have a cassin and a petzl as well, and the BDs are almost always my screws of choice. I don't think 19 cms are very useful on vertical ice, they take to long to place.
I would go with this, except change one of the 13cm for another 16cm. Also, add a few more screamers. Definitely the BD Express, although I have not tried the newest Petzl screws. The BD Screwup is a decent option for carrying screws.
Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

That's good stuff.

Anybody use the petzl laser speed lights? The aluminum seems like a good option for alpine. I do like alpine climbing but don't do it enough to justify.

I'm thinking screws either getting grivel helix or petzl laser speed. Anyone like one over the other or should I just get a mix?

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Maybe it's just me, but It seems like mixing and matching ice screws leads to super odd racking orientation, which makes it much harder to rack the rest of your gear without getting poked or snagging slings.

It 'a not the end of the world though, so if you do get multiple brands, just rack them together. With separate ice clippers for different brands and you'll make things a whole lot easier.

C'est La Vie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 35

+1 for Seth Kane's rack.

RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

My go-to rack is:

4x 10
4x 13
4x 16
2x 19
2x 21

Gives you options for climbing everything from long WI4 to chandeliered WI5 to thin WI6+ and anything else out there.

Packing: any which way, as long as they don't put holes in your clothes. I use a crampon pouch. The roll-ups are ok, too, but more awkward.

Grant Kleeves · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 60

12 screws is plenty for starters, and your selection of sizes is fine, I'd probably toss one of the 19's for a 13 but otherwise good. Maybe your area is different but most places I've climbed if you are placing multiple 10's on a pitch it's pretty hard, or maybe mixed, not usually just getting a rack terrain....

definitly get at least two brands, I prefer BD but Grivells with the small square hanger will sometimes place where nothing else will go, good to have a couple, just rack them separately from the other brands.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I going to guess that this season will be your first one leading on your own. I'm thinking you're not borrowing friends' gear that you will be leading or swapping leads everyday out climbing.

If I were in your shoes I would buy 1 10 cm, 3 13 cm, 3 16 cm and 2 19 cm screws. That number will give you seven screws to place while on lead and two 19s for the belay. The 10 cm will come in handy. Get two since price isn't a worry. Most of the routes I do have trees or bolts for anchors. You can get away with nine screws on a multipitch if there's natural anchors or bolted belays. That leaves you with some extra coin too. I also carry 20' of Bluewater Titan cord (sometimes 2 on multi) , Grivel's V-thread tool, three or four lockers, two double slings, two regular slings, three wiregates, 10 draws (8 10cm, 2 18cm), two pruzziks and a belay device. I would pass on the screamers unless they affect your confidence.

The Petzl Lasers are sweet! New Lasers handle works great and the AL teeth bite well. I'm going to stick with BD Express until I replace every screw. Only negative is the cost but you said you're big money so..

I use a roll up to transport screws from home to the route but a crampon bag works well too. I know guys that toss capped off screws into their pack too.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

I've always been a fan of Grivel screws. I have a few 360s, mixed with BD express and some older Omega screws. I have used Petzl screws as well, but my I need to get something in fast screw, when all are equally sharp has always been the Grivels.

I think a 22cm for V-thread is a good idea.

Jeremy Stoshick · · Troy, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 40

I second carrying a longer screw for the v-thread. Just something about the little extra!

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

Skip the 19's add a 22 for threads and one more 13 and your set or add a 10 they do have there place . And when the ice is thin and you need one nothing else will do , tied off screws are bullshit .

I cannot tell you how many times I've climbed someplace and whished I had more 13s , they inspire
A whole lot more confidence when the ice is thin than any tied off 16-17 cm screw IMOH . And I've found the 13 to be a great compromise to packing longer screws , so much in fact that I've been seroiously considering selling off all the 16 - 17 cm screws I own . Holding power is almost the same
And I'd bet With a screamer it would be equally on par .

As far as make , well I'm not going there . But I will tell you this much stay away from anything without a knob . I cary a mixed bag of BD and petzl and a couple Grivel 360s for the funky corners
N such .

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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