Bayamon 2, PR - Bolts question
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Hello! My girlfriend and I are planning out a trip to climb at Bayamon for 5 or so days in late Jan. We'd like this trip to be more of a redpoint trip than volume and curious if anyone can tell us the integrity of the bolts at bayamons sectors. Should we tread lightly on the "x" year old bolts in the humid enviroment or can we whip! Any additional information is welcome. Thanks!!! |
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In Bayamon, there is plenty of good climbs with great rock quality. I have been going there every December for the past two years, and I must say that some,not all, bolts look pretty sketchy, but I have taken whippers on it. There is a decent group of climber in the area that I know maintain the routes as much as they can. I do recommend the area and the locals are friendly and willing to show you the routes. Enjoy!! |
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Cool. Thank you for your info! We're planning on stopping at Aventura Tierra Adentro when we are down there to support their store. We'll scope out which routes look fun and safe before we give it hell. |
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We were just climbing out there last December and everything we got on looked and felt solid - bolt wise. |
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Woah! Epic tips right there!!! We're still trying to find a guidebook for the place... Looks like the bayamon guidebook was removed as they are updating it. Hopefully the new book is ready by Jan :( |
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Just climbed a bunch of easier routes at Bayamon 2 a few weeks ago, and some bolts and anchors are starting to show their age. Tropical island air = rust. It's hard to tell how deep the corrosion goes, but climb prudently. |
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Thanks Jedeye! We'll certainly tread lightly as it sounds from other responses that some (most?) of the bolts do need to be replaced, which is a shame but understandable. I have really ever come across a rusted bolt maybe only once. I would hate to misjudge a routes integrity and be stuck 4+ bolts up clipped into a devious looking piece of metal. |
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Ben, |
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Very helpful Jed and thank you for your responses! We will for sure stop, chat and buy at the local climbing shop when we arrive. Just want to know what we're getting into :) |
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Ben Weigner wrote:Woah! Epic tips right there!!! We're still trying to find a guidebook for the place... Looks like the bayamon guidebook was removed as they are updating it. Hopefully the new book is ready by Jan :(http://sdrv.ms/1hOkpjx This is the Bayamon guide (the old one) if you still need it. |
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Hello. |
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It's 99% sport. Not toprope. You can boulder around the base of the crags, or there's a bouldering area down a trail to the right at the last switchback of the road, before it straightens up to the observation tower. |
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For what it's worth. Our trip to Puerto Rico to climb was 100% amazing. Edda and Rossano (local legends and climbing shop owners) are the greatest people. We climbed with them for one day at Cerras las tetas, did one day at Bayamon and the rest of the time at Caliche. |
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Thanks Ben for allowing me to climb with you guys. Especially the climbing at Caliche was a blast. |
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Glad more peeps are finding out how fun PR climbing is. |
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Ben, |
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Hello, |
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Hey John, |
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Also a bump for Alex! We climbed with him last year and he's and gentleman and a scholar! Safe belays and friendly. Sorry you couldn't make it to HCR this year! |
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Ben Dubs wrote:Hey John, Thanks for your reply and thanks for your work around the world to keep up climbing and safe! (We're planning a trip to Cayman for maybe next year). I have and will continue to chose not to do climbs where the bolts do look suspicious but that SCC is outright scary! I spoke to PR's main developers about Ti and the longevity vs the Ss however I don't feel I have the clout or experience to sway any opinions. If I knew how to bolt or maintain a route maybe. That being said if anyone wants to teach, I'll travel and carry everything for such a lesson!I don't think you need to be an expert to campaign for safe bolts. All the information anyone needs is available online. What's hard is getting people out of their mental rut and getting them to take action instead of just accepting the SNAFU. Often it takes someone breaking a bolt and getting seriously injured or dying before they'll get off their asses. Here's the chain of events: Stage 1: Denial. We don't have that problem here. Oh, those bolts weren't stainless (because they look rusty). Blah, blah, blah... I've heard it all. Stage 2: Immature response. We'll replace those non-stainless bolts with "good" stainless because Ti is too expensive (and rebolting every few years is cheaper, yeah right). Stage 3: Bolt breaks, someone gets hurt or dies. Land managers step in and shut down climbing. Lawyers get involved. A good friend is paralyzed. Now everyone is totally f*cked and it takes years and boatloads of work and money to even get permission to bolt with Ti. That's if you're not the guy in the wheelchair. So SOMEONE (let it be you) needs to start a climber's coalition who's purpose is to replace the bad bolts with Ti bolts. Pool your money, labor and expertise. Take RESPONSIBILITY for the sport you love, or it won't be there much longer. See ya in Cayman Some time. |