Farley Ledge?

Since its taboo ton post any info or print any info can anyone PM some answers if not a handwritten topo!!!!!! Going out there or the first time and not sure if I should bring a trad or sport rack. Also any info on some routes would be great. What are the classics. I lead sport comfortably up to 5.9 ( I wouldnt mind putting in some effort on some easy 10's tho). I lead trad up to 5.8. Are there accessible anchors at the top to set up a TR? Please get back to me any info appreciated. Thanks

Speaking of not speaking about Farley...

In theory, if I maybe left some La Sportiva Mythos (38.5) there two weekends ago might anybody, in theory mind you, have found them?

This is all hypothetical of course, but I'd be much obliged if you could return them to me. I live in Boston/Cambridge.

Depending on what day you get there, I am sure you'll run into a bunch of locals who will be willing to point stuff out to you. Most of the popular stuff is sporty. But the upper tier has some classic crack climbs for sure. Almost all climbs have bolted anchors or slung tree's. Most anchors are a few feet below the ledges to prevent rope wear but some you can reach.

if anyone would want a partner... shoot me a message, i'd love to check out Farley... Would be driving from the North Shore of MA

This post should be removed. The land owner does not want anything posted online about this crag. Please remove to continue to secure access that has been fought to hard for to lose.

"Climbing access at Farley is an ongoing concern and the crag has faced closures by landowners in the past.[3] Landowners have requested that no online or printed guides containing climbing route descriptions or grades are published.[4] As a result, climbing at Farley Ledges is a social affair for new climbers who must seek out experienced locals for climbing information."

that is from: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farle…

so in theory it's ok to talk about - just not to talk online openly about routes or post up topos.

Farley is far from a secret location and far from my favorite location. In fact, I don't like Farley because it's over crowded, especially on weekends.

I would classify talking about specific routes by name and discussing how to set up top rope anchors beta on a specific route. Maybe you disagree.

That's why I didn't chime up until that was posted. I think the OP might verify that I provided him some beta in pm. I'd be happy to provide you the same.

If you're curious what my favorite climbing location is, I welcome you to contact me and I'll bring you along to show you, it's not listed on MP.

You can call me out all you want in a forum but I'm not responding publicly anymore, I said my piece in an effort to protect access, not meant to have been taken personally or have a personal attack back.

Again, if you want beta, I'd be happy to provide it to you in private. If you want to see my favorite climbing area that you are so curious about, I'd love to show you.

I'm not sure if you remember me? I believe we have climbed together before.

Until the next time I see you crag side, safe climbing.

Oh snap! he be like, SAY IT TO MY FACE IN PERSON NICE MAN

Such a bold move - i <3 fight club farley alum

I've been there on the most crowded days and had certain crags all to myself ( and climbing partners). There is definitely a fun adventurous feel to Farley, but if you go on a given day any local or someone familiar would gladly give you beta..