Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 8,872 ft
GPS: 50.7491, -116.78048
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 957,610 total · 4,498/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Bugaboo Provincial Park is one of the greatest alpine playgrounds in North America, and the world for that matter. Imagine large granite spires of all shapes and sizes surrounded by beautiful glaciers and mountains as far as the eye can see and that's the Bugaboos. All the rock is alpine granite and the quality on most routes is superb, even those which are not considered classics. Routes range from a few hundred feet tall to a few thousand and offer anything from ridge scrambles and moderate free climbs to hard test pieces and multi-day big walls.

The climbing season is generally June to September with July and August having the best chance of good weather. But be prepared for any kind of weather, it can storm at anytime and it snows every month of the year. Temperatures can vary greatly depending on what side of a spire you're climbing on (North, South, East, West), if the sun's out or not, or if it's windy so plan accordingly. An ice axe and crampons are mandatory to be safe especially later in the season when the glaciers can become a little more troublesome to negotiate due to melting. Glacier travel skills are recommended for getting to and from most climbs unless you're staying near the campground.

There are several options for staying in the park when your visiting. The most comfortable but also the most expensive is the Conrad Kain Hut which is managed by the Alpine Club of Canada and will cost you $25 a night (Canadian) per person as of 2013. But provides you with a warm dry place to hang out in foul weather, a kitchen with running water and lights for late night reading. Other more cost effective options are the campgrounds, with the Applebee campground being the most popular by far. It will cost you $10 (Canadian) a night per person (pay at the Kain hut) and is basically a large area of somewhat flat rocks to place your tent on. It does offer you a toilet, racks for hanging gear and food and great views which make the price seem more reasonable.

Getting There Suggest change

The Bugaboo Provincial Park is located in the Purcell range of British Columbia, off of Highway 95. To get to the Bugaboos travel 17 miles north of Radium Hotsprings or 48 miles south of Golden on Highway 95 depending on where your coming from to the really small town of Brisco. Head west on a dirt road that has a sign for the park and goes past a lumber mill. Follow the dirt road over the Columbia River and up into the mountains for 28.5 miles. There are several turn offs along the road but there are signs at most of them for the Bugaboos otherwise just stay on the main road.

Once at the parking area there should be enough chicken wire, wood posts and rocks to protect your vehicle from rubber eating porcupines. You'll see what I mean when you get there, don't take a chance. The trailhead is at the west end of the parking lot and the next 3 miles to the Conrad Kain Hut are steep so pace yourself. It's about .5 miles from the hut to the Applebee campground up more steep trail. The new guide book "The Bugaboos" written by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche has all the info you need for a great trip.

75 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Bugaboos Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Bugaboos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3 A0
 63
Toilet Seat
Aid, Boulder, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 341
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 145
Kain Route (South Ridge)
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 297
North East Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/W…
Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 73
Surfs Up
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 221
McTech Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Paddle Flake Direct
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 234
Beckey-Chouinard
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 105
Sunshine Crack
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
Solitary Confinement
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
 15
All Along the Watchtower
Trad, Aid, Alpine 32 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Energy Crisis
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 19
Minotaur Direct
Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Sendero Norte
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Toilet Seat Pigeon Spire
 63
V-easy 3 A0 Aid, Boulder, Alpine
West Ridge Pigeon Spire
 341
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Kain Route (South Ridge) Bugaboo Spire
 145
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
North East Ridge Bugaboo Spire
 297
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Cor… Snowpatch Spire
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
Surfs Up Snowpatch Spire
 73
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
McTech Arete Crescent Spire
 221
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Paddle Flake Direct Crescent Spire
 54
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Beckey-Chouinard Howser Towers > S Howser Tower
 234
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Sunshine Crack Snowpatch Spire
 105
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Solitary Confinement Pigeon Feathers
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
All Along the Watchtower Howser Towers > N Howser Tower
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R Trad, Aid, Alpine 32 pitches
Energy Crisis Crescent Spire
 24
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Minotaur Direct Snowpatch Spire
 19
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
Sendero Norte Snowpatch Spire
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Bugaboos »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading