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Inside Flags safe on Lead?

Original Post
Danger · · Taipei City · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 160

I realized recently I have a (irrational?) fear of doing inside flags, backsteps and laybacks on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain.

When I fall while facing the wall, I can use hands and feet to brace, but in an inside flag position, I feel like having my side to the wall rather than my front compromises my ability to fall safely.

Is this a legit concern on lead or do I just need to find someone who can give a soft catch? How would i minimize my chance of injury in this sort of turned-in situation?

Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367
Danger wrote:I realized recently I have a (irrational?) fear of doing inside flags, backsteps and laybacks on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain. When I fall while facing the wall, I can use hands and feet to brace, but in an inside flag position, I feel like having my side to the wall rather than my front compromises my ability to fall safely. Is this a legit concern on lead or do I just need to find someone who can give a soft catch? How would i minimize my chance of injury in this sort of turned-in situation?
I fall all the time while in the "inside flag" position, I've also taken a lot of really awkward sideways falls and what not on lead, as long as you have a competent experienced belay 9 times out of 10 you'll be fine... the worst thing that's happened to me was a bit of rope burn near my arm pit from falling while attempting a dyno several feet above my last protection.

just don't put your foot behind the rope ever and you'll be fine.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i really have a fear of inside flagging on lead also. i am mostly afraid that if i come off, somehow my upper (inside leg) will get wrapped over my lower leg and hyperextend my knee. i have to have a route pretty dialed (or the route has to be easy/secure) for me to feel comfortable with an inside flag.

good question!

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Danger wrote:I realized recently I have a (irrational?) fear of doing inside flags, backsteps and laybacks on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain. When I fall while facing the wall, I can use hands and feet to brace, but in an inside flag position, I feel like having my side to the wall rather than my front compromises my ability to fall safely. Is this a legit concern on lead or do I just need to find someone who can give a soft catch? How would i minimize my chance of injury in this sort of turned-in situation?
I have fallen sideways relative to the wall before. It's a bit strange, and there is probably a higher chance of injury, but nothing to be overlyconserned about. Soft catches are important though. IMO if your belayer does not know how to provide a soft catch, s/he doesent know how to belay...
Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,191
Danger wrote:I realized recently I have a (irrational?) fear of doing -- backsteps and laybacks on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain.
Seems like the fall would be even worse on less-than-vertical terrain.

This happened to me on a layback with very little rope out. I was caught sideways very abruptly and "bruised" some ribs. But at least I didn't hit a ledge.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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