Mountain Project Logo

Belaying two lead climbers with a BD ATC Guide

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45
skeptical hawk speaks the truth!
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

I have belayed two leaders at the same time!!!

Short Sport Climbing.... two GriGris, two different routes....two super light leaders, warming up on 5.8.

MultiTasking defined.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Dallas R wrote: Yes I do, I freely admit to being new at the sport, and therefore I do not have all the tools and experience that others have. This is why I explore ideas and study different techniques before I apply them on the rock. As far as finding guides and more experienced climbers that has been tough for us. We travel around and so are not in an area long enough to establish relationships with good climbers who are willing to spend time with us. Our experiences with guides have not been real great either. They were more interested in getting us on the rock than instructing. We will be climbing on Enchanted Rock Tue and Thur. Anyone interested?
Yep, I see that you're open about learning and being careful about it, which is great, I hope that I didn't come off harshly there, and I apologize if I did.

That's a bummer that the guides haven't worked out up to this point...maybe that isn't as good and idea as I'd thought...you'd hope that a guide would be open to designing whatever instructional program you wanted, as long as it could be done safely. Here's at least one guy I'm pretty sure would work with ya!
coloradomountainschool.com/…
Ahmed IbnHabibjan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 65
Guy Keesee wrote:I have belayed two leaders at the same time!!! Short Sport Climbing.... two GriGris, two different routes....two super light leaders, warming up on 5.8. MultiTasking defined.
Sounds riskay! ;)
Ahmed IbnHabibjan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 65
Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

One thing I have done is some easy multipitch and climb 2 parties of 2 with the stronger party cleaning while the weaker party leads below the stronger party. This way the stronger party can give advice on where to go where to look for pro or even leave in a piece or two through the crux sections. The 2nd can left the leader from below set up their anchors etc.

However I have always down this with people that lead say 5.7 or 5.8 and are trying to climb a stiff 5.9 or 5.10

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

I've seen quite a few scientists postulate evolution is dead, I'm happy to be proven wrong.

I guess what I'm saying is this is a bad idea. Belaying on doubles takes a little extra care, simultaneously belaying two independent climbers on independent ropes, just a bad idea.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
rgold wrote:Yup, as others have said, this is not the way to go. Moreover, there are really several learning issues involved. One of them is about adequate placements. ...
Excellent information on learning to trad lead from rgold. Thank you.
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
David Gibbs wrote: Excellent information on learning to trad lead from rgold. Thank you.
Wow, yes, just read rgold's post: do what rgold said and you two will be in good shape. We all would be, actually! Except for the SAR folks, they might get really bored as a result.
Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

Yup, Rgold nailed it.

Thank you!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Belaying two lead climbers with a BD ATC Guide"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.