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Routes in West Ironing Board
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Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crescent T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,884 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Dec 9, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is a fun route but requires lots of big cams to protect well. I doubt anyone owns six #4 Camalots for this one, thus the S rating.
Start in the large crack a few feet right of Smoother. This crack curves up and right and is rather striking from afar. Unfortunately, the crack is an offwidth size and is awkward to climb and only useful for protection. It is even awkward to protect as the easiest climbing is on the face a few feet right of the crack (where you can't reach the crack), and you may have to reach far inside it to place a #4 Camalot.
After about 120', you reach a sort of pod, and above this the crack narrows to about 3" for a short section. You can belay here off a #3 Camalot, or continue. After 30 more feet, the crack starts to lean right significantly and the climbing becomes much easier. After walking right 50' (using a 60m rope from the ground), you will discover you are out of rope (and the crack is still 8"). My second had to climb up about 10' so I could reach a section where the crack narrows and I could belay (save one or two big cams for the belay).
The next pitch follows another wide flarey crack which continues up. This crack is friendlier and offers several placements for small pro, although one section is filled with grass. Move left at a horizontal crack, traversing until it is easy to go up (this point is about 30' right of the "320' anchor" on Smoother). Continue up and right beside another large crack to the ridge crest.
You can do one easy pitch up the ridge, and downclimb or rap the Green Chimney, or continue two more pitches (when in doubt, head left) until the ridge become broken and very easy, and then walk off west. The actual summit of the West Ironing Board is just north of here and can easily be scrambled up from the NE.
Start in the large crack a few feet right of Smoother. This crack curves up and right and is rather striking from afar. Unfortunately, the crack is an offwidth size and is awkward to climb and only useful for protection. It is even awkward to protect as the easiest climbing is on the face a few feet right of the crack (where you can't reach the crack), and you may have to reach far inside it to place a #4 Camalot.
After about 120', you reach a sort of pod, and above this the crack narrows to about 3" for a short section. You can belay here off a #3 Camalot, or continue. After 30 more feet, the crack starts to lean right significantly and the climbing becomes much easier. After walking right 50' (using a 60m rope from the ground), you will discover you are out of rope (and the crack is still 8"). My second had to climb up about 10' so I could reach a section where the crack narrows and I could belay (save one or two big cams for the belay).
The next pitch follows another wide flarey crack which continues up. This crack is friendlier and offers several placements for small pro, although one section is filled with grass. Move left at a horizontal crack, traversing until it is easy to go up (this point is about 30' right of the "320' anchor" on Smoother). Continue up and right beside another large crack to the ridge crest.
You can do one easy pitch up the ridge, and downclimb or rap the Green Chimney, or continue two more pitches (when in doubt, head left) until the ridge become broken and very easy, and then walk off west. The actual summit of the West Ironing Board is just north of here and can easily be scrambled up from the NE.
Photos
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