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El Malpais
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1096 
A Moment's Respite 
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Crack of Heraclitus 
Easy Come, Easy Go 
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1096 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Horak, Baltz, Dalen, Oct 1978
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: David Baltz on Nov 11, 2009
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1096

Description 

This route was named after the famous climb in Yosemite. (1) Up an easy chimney. (2) Work up toward a seam in a left-facing corner. Work through the crux corner (fixed Leeper Z) to gain a squeeze chimney and the ledge with a large tree. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. (3) Climb the flared chimney above past two bolts (5.8), through the overhang and belay on the ledge above. (4) The final easy pitch works its way through the caprock.


Location 

About 8.1 miles past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff are the largest walls in the Malpais. 1096 is the prominent flared chimney on the west face. The route starts below the left end of a large ledge with a tree at the chimney's base.


Protection 

Standard rack to 5". Take kneepads!



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Dave - It turns out this climb had a different name before it was completed.  Who knows if 10.96 crept into the vernacular.  Either way what do you say to renaming it Twin Traumas?
Dave - It turns out this climb had a different nam...
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