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El Malpais
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1096 T 
A Moment's Respite T 
Breech Baby T 
Crack of Heraclitus T 
Easy Come, Easy Go T 
Icebreaker T 
Mt. Cosmic Debris T 
Mushroom, The T 
New Frontier T 
Overdrive T 
Rotten Peach T 
Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 
Strensuous Curve T 
Surfin' the Turf T 
Sword of Cimmeria T 
Trudy Buns T,S 
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Unknown V5 
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YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Horak, Baltz, Dalen, Oct 1978
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: David Baltz on Nov 11, 2009

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This route was named after the famous climb in Yosemite. (1) Up an easy chimney. (2) Work up toward a seam in a left-facing corner. Work through the crux corner (fixed Leeper Z) to gain a squeeze chimney and the ledge with a large tree. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. (3) Climb the flared chimney above past two bolts (5.8), through the overhang and belay on the ledge above. (4) The final easy pitch works its way through the caprock.


About 8.1 miles past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff are the largest walls in the Malpais. 1096 is the prominent flared chimney on the west face. The route starts below the left end of a large ledge with a tree at the chimney's base.


Standard rack to 5". Take kneepads!

Photos of 1096 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave - It turns out this climb had a different nam...
Dave - It turns out this climb had a different nam...

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