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Release the Kraken
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Pinnacle Mountain
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Alien Umbrella T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bent Hickory T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Lung T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Buzz Off T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cannonball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dorf T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feeding the Rat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Finding the Rat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Horf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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On Slot T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Release the Kraken T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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What The Eft T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,880 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This is simply an amazing route. Great rock and interesting climbing throughout. Not a move harder than 5.11b, but it really feels like 5.12 because of the pump. The location can't be beat.
Make an easy boulder move to gain the crack, then follow this through a thin section (crux) to easier climbing past a natural thread. Continue up to where the crack angles back left. At this point there are two options. The original ascent followed this left-leaning crack up, then switched to a smaller crack to the left, then finally switched to yet another crack on the left to topout. Alternatively, you can traverse left (similar to It's Only Entertainment, but with better pro) to the base of the third crack and follow this to the top.
The top cracks were once quite clean, but are now (Sep 2014) a little dirty, but not so much that it hinders the climbing.
There's a [new/2018] fixed anchor just below the rim where one can lower with a 60m rope. This anchor avoids the rope getting very stuck in the topout crack.
Make an easy boulder move to gain the crack, then follow this through a thin section (crux) to easier climbing past a natural thread. Continue up to where the crack angles back left. At this point there are two options. The original ascent followed this left-leaning crack up, then switched to a smaller crack to the left, then finally switched to yet another crack on the left to topout. Alternatively, you can traverse left (similar to It's Only Entertainment, but with better pro) to the base of the third crack and follow this to the top.
The top cracks were once quite clean, but are now (Sep 2014) a little dirty, but not so much that it hinders the climbing.
There's a [new/2018] fixed anchor just below the rim where one can lower with a 60m rope. This anchor avoids the rope getting very stuck in the topout crack.
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