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TCU's (C3's) in sandstone

Original Post
Nick Dolhyj 1 · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 130

gumbie question here, despite having a decent amount of experience.
i have placed plenty of tcu's in sandstone (shitty sedona sandstone) and haven't fallen on them, but have been hearing that tcu's in sandstone are a death wish. so for safety's sake, i'll ask: is it safe to place tcu's or c3's in sandstone and fall on them?
i mostly ask because i'm going to the creek this weekend and want to push myself on some thin cracks and can't get a whole lot of 4 lobers in the small sizes

marty funkhouser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 20

Most of the thin cracks in IC were put up years ago using tcu's

Nick Dolhyj 1 · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 130

alright, well that's comforting. thanks, man

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

It depends on the quality of the sandstone and the quality of the placement.

Generally the softer/weaker the stone, the less any placement will be likely to hold. For passive placements, at the small end you have to worry about the edge/constriction breaking. For a cam, you have to worry about that, plus about the rock basically grinding/rubbing away, so the cam doesn't engage or doesn't engage enough to stop your fall. Also, if there is any loose sand on the surface (not uncommon on some sandstones, again quality of the rock), these can act like ball-bearings and allow the cam to travel rather than engage.

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
mountainproject.com/v/carbo…
Recommended rack is only 3-lobe camming units.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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