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Classic NC routes...

Original Post
Todd Reeves · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 707

First time climbing in NC after 18 years exploring Western U.S. rock. Would appreciate advice on classic multi-pitch routes in the .8 to mid .10 range. Plan on climbing in mid October for a week. Thanks for sharing your experience...

bernard wolfe · · birmingham, al · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 265

if it is still in print

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

mattjohnson · · Greenville SC · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 40

These are some of my favorite multi pitch climbs I've done so far:

The Womb (LG-north) - 5.9 with one easy aid move
Rat's Ass (LG-south) - 5.8
Airlie Gardens (Ship Rock) - 5.9
Dopey Duck (Shortoff) - 5.9+
White Lightening (Table Rock) - 5.8+

Drew Hayes · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 110

I second dopey duck!!!!!

Also construction job at shortoff, lost in space at hawksbill.

Dylan Weldin · · Ramstein, DE · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,715

I've been seasonally guiding rock in Western NC for the past 4 years. Do not miss out on the Linville Gorge Wilderness. When you drop off the rim into the amphitheater you might wonder why an approach trail appears to be so neglected, but once you start up your lines the world falls away below and you'll feel really out there

Sunset from the Hawksbill is difficult to beat in the region, and a refreshing dip in the waterfall a short distance south on highway 181 ties the whole area together.

Free camping, and short driving distance to other high country classics at Ship Rock above the Linn Cove Viaduct.

A scenic drive from Linville down to Looking Glass on the Blue Ridge Parkway in October will not disappoint. Do this on a weekday.

Enjoy! And not everything is runout, but you'll find yourself being pushed mentally in that regard far more often than physically.

-Dylan

Upper Creek Falls, just outside the Linville Gorge Wilderness

High off the deck in the Amphitheater

kidda · · Boone, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 25

I second others'suggestions for:

The Nose - 5.8 - Looking Glass
Airlie Gardens - 5.9 - Ship Rock
White Lightning - 5.8 - Table Rock

In addition:

Hindu Kush - 5.8 - Ship Rock
Boardwalk - 5.8 - Ship Rock
Linn Cove Lullaby - 5.10a - Ship Rock
Bumblebee Buttress - 5.8 - NC wall
The Daddy - 5.6 - NC wall amphitheater
Straight and Narrow - 5.10a - Shortoff
Unfinished Concerto - 5.9 - Looking Glass
Groover - 5.8 - Laurel Knob

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

Here is a good thread that I started when I was moving back to NC after living in Colorado for 4 years. Great suggestions in there.
NC tic list thread

Just throwing out some of my all time favorites in NC. Not all is runout.

Moores
Zoo View 7+, Air Show 8+, Nutsweat 9+ All + ratings are serious! Well protected but pumpy climbs.

Linville (Mostly well protected and of a steeper variety)
White Lightning 8+
Mummy 5.5, Daddy 6
Dopey Duck .9, Straight and Narrow .10

Looking Glass (some runout on the other walls but these routes are on the north side and are all well protected... think Yosemite like climbing... that good)
Seal .10, Womb .11, Sperm .10

Stone (all runout but so fun and good mental exercise)
Grand Funk RR .9, Electric Boobs .9

Laurel Knob (crux's well protected but long runouts on somewhat easier terrain. Longer route than long alpine routes in Rocky like the Petit Grepon)
Seconds .9 (1100ft route)

Rumbling Bald (well protected trad and sport cragging)
Granola .8, Fruit Loops .7, Frosted Flake .9, Shredded Wheat .11

NC is great!

Chris Massey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

North Carolina is a big place and there is a lot of rock. You will need to narrow down what region you are looking to visit to save a lot of windshield time. Good multipitch classics from Moores Wall to Whitesides with a whole lot in between at places like Stone and Rumbling Bald and Linville Gorge. My suggestion would be to start with Linville Gorge. Hit up some classics like White Lightning and Second Stanza at Table Rock, then go down to the Amipitheatre or NC Wall for the Mummy, Daddy and Bumblebee. Short trip down to Hawksbill for Lost in Space and Star Trekkin from there. Once you have it dialed in head down to Shortoff for some of the best multi in the state on routes like Dopey Duck, Manginot, Straight & Narrow, and Built to Tilt. Then if you have some more time decide if you want to head to to the high country toward Ship for classics like Boardwalk, Hindu Kush, Airlie Gardens, Linn Cove Lullaby, etc, or down toward Brevard for classics at Looking Glass like the Nose, Dinkus Dog, Rats Ass, and many others. October is the perfect month for any of those places. Have fun.

Todd Reeves · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 707

Thanks for all the great route choices and itineraries. Sounds like a very special climbing destination. Looking forward to sampling your local stone. Cheers!

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Zoo View (moore's 5.7 but most say the start is harder)
White Lightning (table rock 5.8)
The Great Arch (stone only 5.5 but still worth a run up if you want a relaxing day, after the sketchy 5.8 first pitch 30ft+ foot runouts)

Todd Reeves · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 707

Thanks...! No one has mentioned Fathom (.10-) at Laurel Knob...should it be on the list with Groover and Seconds?

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
Todd Reeves wrote:Thanks...! No one has mentioned Fathom (.10-) at Laurel Knob...should it be on the list with Groover and Seconds?
Fathom is also classic. I think Groover and Seconds are probably better first timer routes. Make sure you are climbing a partner who you're dialed in with; I remember many belays where I could hardly hear my belayer; most pitches seemed like they were a full rope length. Once you leave the huge arching corner get ready for some true NC runout slab!

NC is full of long classic multi-pitch routes and stellar single pitch galore. With only a week, you can't hardly scratch the surface. If I were you I'd concentrate my efforts towards Looking Glass, plus your not too far from Laurel at that point.
Jeff Mekolites · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 5,250

Here are bunch that are in the MP database. I searched 5.8-5.10d, more than 4 pitches and 3 or more stars. It seems like most are centered around Looking Glass, Laurel Knob and Linville Gorge. Plenty of options in those places. I narrowed it done to ones that I am familiar with and would recommend. If you increase the search to 5.11- you come up with even more options. Plus there are a bunch that are shorter than 4 pitches.

Paradise Alley
Bumblebee Buttress
The Sperm
The Seal
Titties & Beer
Sundial Crack
The Nose
Hyperbola
Dum Dee Dum Dum
Groover (Fischesser Finish)
Groover (Gaskin Finish)
Seconds
Pirate's Cove
Fathom
Central Pillar of Laurel
Old Times' Sake
Route Of The Living Dead
Save the Shrimp

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

Todd, I'd love to hear where you went and what you thought after your trip.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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