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Katahdin bouldering or single pitches

Original Post
jTaylor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 50

Going camping in katahdin Monday to Wednesday next week and was curious how the bouldering is there? Monday we get to the park, camp at roaring brook and the next two days we got a spot at chimney pond. I'd love to climb some multi pitch stuff but my friends aren't really climbers at all so I figured some bouldering would be the best way to get my fix with out carrying a bunch of gear that will most likely not get used anyways. But I would maybe change my mind if there are some near by single pitches since I feel I could convince my friends into trying those if they were close. I'd love to get on the aramadillo but I know my friends would most likely be shitting their pants if I somehow convinced them to follow me since they have only done some cragging.

Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, ME · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

You will find some shorter climbs to the left of Pamola in the vicinity of Mini Panicle. Explore the scree under Pamola on left and far side of Chimney Pond for boulders. Explore anywhere really. Also check with the ranger at Chimney Pond and if you are lucky and they climb they will be a wealth of information.

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

There is some single pitch stuff on the flanks of Pamola (e.g. the Diamonds) very close to Chimney Pond. Never done them though so I can't speak to the quality. There is route information for them in the book at the ranger station at Chimney Pond.

Last time I was there my friends and I looked for some bouldering around Chimney Pond and didn't find anything that good but there looks to be some up in the Pamola caves (probably terrible landings though).

If your friends have any inclination to climb just drag them onto one the alpine routes none of which are that bad for second. Pamola IV can be done at 5.5 or so and is really a steep broken ridge scramble interspersed with easy technical climbing. The Armadillo Route is only really two pitches of true technically climbing followed by a pitch of fun technical scrambling (that most would want to rope for). The belay ledges are great and the exposure isn't that bad especially for the second. If you did the first pitch (to the top of the flake) in two short pitches it would be super safe for the follower (and avoid a potential swing when coming around onto the face of the flake). Your friends may curse you at the time but will be really psyched you made them do it afterwards. For its length its really one of the best climbs in the Northeast. Real climbing.

Jim

jTaylor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 50

Thanks for the info guys, prob just gonna bring my shoes since they are light and leave the gear behind since I should already be grateful that I was somehow able to convince my friends to take time off from work, haha

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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