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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Breathe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Driveway Gravel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Great Gig in the Sky, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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High Noon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3 |
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Sharing is (open project) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way Life Goes, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Adam Grosowsky, 1992, FFA unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,355 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Nov 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Five Easy Pieces is a worthwhile adventure on mostly good rock. With four pitches at 5.12 or harder, it's no gimme, but is generally well protected and is characterized by excellent moves on mostly impeccable rock. It's worth noting that this route has a lot of drilled holds, (like many routes at Smith) but is super fun to climb anyway.
Pitch 1: 13 bolts. Climb the heavily chalked and popular sport pitch. Instead of stopping where the chalk ends, climb past anchor onto a friable slab and take it to a different anchor at a great ledge. 5.12a
Pitch 2: 14 bolts. The crux. Step left on the ledge and make thin, but generally easy moves up the slab above. Increasingly difficult sequences interspersed with good rests end in a wild sequence on an overhanging shield of perfect rock. After clipping the intermediate anchor, commit to the funky crux above. (sadly on the worst rock on the pitch) A yellow-purple TCU sized piece would be handy for dogging this pitch. If rappelling, descend here. 5.13a
Pitch 3: Watts says 9 bolts. We found more. 10? It's easy to back clean higher and you'd be psyched to have some long runners on many of the bolts. Climb directly up off the belay and get established underneath a small overhang. A crux move getting over the bulge spits you out on a thin slab on beautiful rock. Traverse left into the obvious weakness. (scary for the follower) Just as the moves ease, the rock turns to total crap for 10' until you get established in the (bolted) hand crack which has surprisingly good rock. Follow this to an anchor. (Marginal. 5 historical 1/4 inch bolts) 5.12a
Pitch 4: 4 bolts. A short pitch. Watts says it's not any good, but despite a little choss at the start, it's good rock and fun to climb. Follow the bolts up and left to a large ledge. 5.10
Pitch 5: 7 bolts. If this were on the ground, it would get lapped constantly. There's nothing else at Smith like it. Steep, bouldery moves off the ledge lead to a thin crux moving through obviously drilled pockets. As the holds improve, the angle kicks even further back for a couple more bolts of steep, athletic movement and wild positions.
Walk down Misery Ridge Trail.
Pitch 1: 13 bolts. Climb the heavily chalked and popular sport pitch. Instead of stopping where the chalk ends, climb past anchor onto a friable slab and take it to a different anchor at a great ledge. 5.12a
Pitch 2: 14 bolts. The crux. Step left on the ledge and make thin, but generally easy moves up the slab above. Increasingly difficult sequences interspersed with good rests end in a wild sequence on an overhanging shield of perfect rock. After clipping the intermediate anchor, commit to the funky crux above. (sadly on the worst rock on the pitch) A yellow-purple TCU sized piece would be handy for dogging this pitch. If rappelling, descend here. 5.13a
Pitch 3: Watts says 9 bolts. We found more. 10? It's easy to back clean higher and you'd be psyched to have some long runners on many of the bolts. Climb directly up off the belay and get established underneath a small overhang. A crux move getting over the bulge spits you out on a thin slab on beautiful rock. Traverse left into the obvious weakness. (scary for the follower) Just as the moves ease, the rock turns to total crap for 10' until you get established in the (bolted) hand crack which has surprisingly good rock. Follow this to an anchor. (Marginal. 5 historical 1/4 inch bolts) 5.12a
Pitch 4: 4 bolts. A short pitch. Watts says it's not any good, but despite a little choss at the start, it's good rock and fun to climb. Follow the bolts up and left to a large ledge. 5.10
Pitch 5: 7 bolts. If this were on the ground, it would get lapped constantly. There's nothing else at Smith like it. Steep, bouldery moves off the ledge lead to a thin crux moving through obviously drilled pockets. As the holds improve, the angle kicks even further back for a couple more bolts of steep, athletic movement and wild positions.
Walk down Misery Ridge Trail.
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