help us decide on a winter climbing destination

so we have to take our trip over new years and want to combine a honeymoon and climbing trip. its between smith rock and EPC.

Bend has nice restaurants, tons of other stuff to do on rest days and is just a nice town. but it could be FREEZING and i'm pretty terrible climbing with frozen fingers.

EPC would get us out of dodge and into some culture. we could get a casita and grocery shop and cook and mingle with the locals and get simple for a bit. weather would be better but it kinda looks like nothing to do on rest days. and safety? can i go for a run???

would love your opinions

El Potrero Chico is a must climb for anyone in the states. Especially if you are a sport climber. It is still one of the best rock locations (limestone) I have been too. Every climb there is a classic...even the ones people don't do. The city is cool too. Definitely a great place to go. I am debating this same question (winter climbing destination) so this is a good thread! I was leaning toward Cochise Stronghold because I have been to EPC and am looking for some trad lines.

Definitely do Mexico though...it was fun! And warm...

i have heard great things about cohise but that its hard to find your way in without a guide. that a straight up climbing trip for another time for sure. good to hear about hidalgo. it doesn't look that cool. i just looked up the cayman crag wow if it wasn't soooo far away

FWIW - You don't need a guide to go climbing in Cochise. Between MP, the out of print Kerry guide (available in full online, for free), and the various other topos hanging around you are good to go.

+1 for potrero chico it's awesome climbing muti and single pitch with a great scene of climbers.

Jennifer rau wrote:so we have to take our trip over new years and want to combine a honeymoon and climbing trip. its between smith rock and EPC. Bend has nice restaurants, tons of other stuff to do on rest days and is just a nice town. but it could be FREEZING and i'm pretty terrible climbing with frozen fingers.

Jacob Jones wrote:FWIW - You don't need a guide to go climbing in Cochise. Between MP, the out of print Kerry guide (available in full online, for free), and the various other topos hanging around you are good to go.

Jennifer rau wrote: Isn't it mostly trad ? Looks amazing but I know little of it.

First off, congratulations on your marriage! I'm sure whatever you do will be great!
I've climbed at all the places being talked about, and they're all wonderful, and very different from each other.

Smith Rock--Locals can contradict me, but I don't think it's a great winter destination. I'm sure there are a lot of climbable days, but it means chasing sun and being off the rock when the sun goes down. Great backcountry and downhill skiing in the area, and Bend is a lively town.

EPC--Really fun climbing, with lots of long, relatively moderate bolted climbs. The weather is mostly great, warm and dry, and it seems to never rain in the canyon even if it's raining at the campground, which is a 10 minute walk away. Hidalgo is charming, and relatively prosperous and safe, though by no means a tourist destination. The climbing scene is really fun and friendly, and there are some alternative activities to fill a few rest days.

Cochise--We had amazing weather there last January, but it was warmer than usual, and we were told that it snows there a couple of times per year, so good weather isn't quite guaranteed. It's amazingly beautiful and desolate and remote, and we were alone on weekdays,20 miles down a washboard gravel road from Tombstone, AZ, so it's really more of a wilderness experience. The climbing was great and asthetic, and there were some sport areas, but you'd have a lot more options if you were able to climb trad.

My 2 cents worth--I think I talked myself into going back to the Potrero this winter.

If it's only between smith and epc, go to epc, you will get more mileage and have more fun! Could also look at Thailand or red rocks if you are open to other locals

Jennifer rau wrote: its between smith rock and EPC.

What Eric and Grant said.
I lived in Portland for several years and have climbed a lot at Smith. It can be climbable that time of year but you've got to want it as it isn't typically pleasant.

Really it comes down to luck. Being that far north the days are very short so you rarely get more than a couple of hours of okay temps.
Unless you're one of those folks who thinks that 30deg is the ideal climbing temperature.
On the other hand you could make it a kick ass ski trip with Batchelor right there and save the sunny/warm cragging for another occasion.
cheers,
BA

Here's a spot that's off the beaten track if you like limestone sport climbing
climbing.aimstaging.com/rou…
mountainproject.com/v/homes…

Is any one on this forum looking for a partner to go climbing somewhere essentially anywhere on this list? I am a solid climber lead trad in the 5.9-10 range and sport up to 5.11s. I would love to check out Rio De Janeiro, El Potrero Chico (again...been there and it rules despite some crazy guys opinion), Cochise Stronghold or anywhere really. I am preferential to Rio and Cochise right now.

If so send me a message.

....or you could learn to ice climb....