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I just returned from Yosemite and have so much to learn

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I'm a free climber with a little French free experience. I aided a finger crack and practiced jumaring and cleaning once while: the valley. Where should I start to begin my education on the logistics of aid climbing? I want to learn how to lower out and clean penjis and figure out how to haul. Seems like space hauling with a back up is very efficient, but I'm sure there are negatives I haven't considered. What literature would you have me start with. I have seen most of Chris Macs YouTube videos and it makes sense. I just want to prepare myself further before going to Zion for my first big wall experience

Dane Larson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 25

My climbing partner and I decided to get into aid a few years ago and we're climbing C2-3 with minimal A2. We are by no means hotshit/pro, but are comfortable with many camhook/micronut/head placements in a row and are willing to push our limits with every new route. We're always learning new things.

Here's my advice to you:

  • If possible find someone with experience to teach you the basics. There is nothing better than being called out by someone you respect when you're doing something stupid/wrong. It sets in better when you don't take it personally, it's technical, but you're a climber, you'll learn quickly.
  • On bigger walls you're opening up more possibilities to kill yourself. Find out what can kill you (falling on jumars, rockfall, weather, what is a screamer?, etc etc etc). Keep an open mind at all times or you're going to find yourself in trouble. Actually, you'll probably find yourself in trouble anyway. Yer gonna die.
  • Find a bolt ladder at your local crag or make on a tree/building/whatever you can, get creative. Shit, your gym might even have one. Practice this until you realize you hate climbing.
  • Find a place you can set up a jugging rope. Practice this until you realize you hate climbing. Having the stamina to jug makes a HUGE difference.
  • After you get some basic skills down, it's really good to find a place at a local crag where you can practice aiding/reaiding/following roofs & traverses like you did with the bolt ladder. Don't be that guy and do this on a popular free route. Aid climbing is slow and people will hate you more than they already do for simply climbing at the same crag as them.
  • I like the McNamara book, I first read Big Walls by John Long. Long's writing is more fun. CMac is more current and has a ton of photos. It may be obvious, but remember that a lot of this stuff is mastered via repetition and hands on application. Go find somewhere where you can pretend you need to do a lower-out and send it. It sucks to be up there and feel SOL when you're 1000' off the deck.
  • Go canyoneering in Zion. Descend Full Imlay canyon. This is what it feels like to bail off of a climb without a 100lb haul bag. Get good at that, but don't tell your climbing friends you canyoneer.
  • Hauling: If you plan on using a 2:1 or 3:1 for hauling, make sure you're doing so appropriately (correctly is implied). Meaning that if your load does not constitute actually bring all that extra crap...don't bother. Next: Check out Mark Hudon's Big Wall Tips Although I don't employ a ton of the stuff he recommends, his 2:1 setup is killer. Easy to pack/unpack at each belay & efficient hauling.
  • Get a hammer. Wait on ever using it.
  • Go get some BD Peckers & Moses Tomahawks (I go for the Tomahawks first in the overlap sizes, but variety is good so get both). When you're looking at blown heads or placing a head, get creative with a hand placed pecker.
  • Cam hooks are your best friend (in the Valley). I have never used the soft-stone version...I don't know...tread lightly?
  • I like/recommend ladder style aiders.
  • After you get a base set of skills, climbing with the same person consistently helps a lot! If you can aid climb, you can usually jump into it with anyone with comparable skills...However, there's definitely something to be said about knowing someone well and getting used to their stench. We make eye contact while pooping in the tube these days. Your pooping efficiency will increase (your climbing teamwork will be much faster and more intuitive too).
  • Bring lots more free non-locking biners than you think (especially if you're sleeping on a portaledge). Walls have a knack for finding a use for them.
  • I am not sure if this applies to Zion, but in the Valley, offset nuts will replace Jesus in your life. Offset cams will replace Vishnu. I think I placed/leapfrogged the Gold #7 DMM nut >40 times on WFLT. I take them up almost all free climbs as well. JTree free climbing has tons of offset cam placements! They turn shitty pull fests into bomber sessions. They do not turn choss into bomber sessions.

Find out what works for your style. Memorize the shit out of it to achieve a consistent flowing speed. Send it.

If there's anything else that I can think of I will post again.
Hope this was helpful!
Danish
Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Danish gave good advice.

I train partners on lowerouts and cleaning all the time. The BEST place to learn this? The gym, no joke. Go on a slow day and TR a route while clipping your own rope you brought into whatever draws you want (no need to follow a route for this) along the way, make sure you have at least one of your clips close to horizontal from the last draw, this will be your lowerout point, once you reach the top, secure the end of your rope to the TR anchor and leave it behind as you lower. Now your partner or you can tie into the gym rope to be on belay as you attach your jugs and ladders to your rope and clean the your rope from the draws as you ascend.

This usually will take up two to three routes while you do this which is why you go on a slow day so people don't get pissy.

I'm not a fan of Cmac's bigwall book but it's not a bad place to start. Ogden's book for mountaineering press (may not be exact words and too lazy to look it up) is great.

Also check out the books on self rescue, many of the techniques you'll find in there will not only help you get down if things go bad but will be helpful in going up as well.

For hauling, pay close attention to using a munter/mule to "dock" your pig (either with extra haul line or a dedicated tether). Do not get used to clipping your pig into the anchor with a biner, bad climber! Bad!

Most importantly, do not skimp on practicing cleaning your pitches. Cleaning a pitch on jugs is a different ballgame from cleaning a pitch while Freeclimbing. It requires a whole new bag of tricks that can often be one of the main hidden time sucks that you won't expect until you're on the wall.

Dane Larson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 25

Kevin is totally right about the munter/mule. Docking efficiently will make your life SO much easier.

I use the system Hudon outlines in his "All things haulbag" PDF under 'Docking Cord'.

He uses a doubled 15' but I use a doubled 30' as I find it more convenient for lowerouts and the extra slack won't get caught or snag like you think it would. When I let my bag go for the hauler, the lines just dangle. having 15' means a lower likelihood of your bag taking a big swinger and possibly finding itself in an annoying place (See: 'haulbag eating flake' located near the top of The Prow on WC...so obnoxious).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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