Hangboard Training (Rock Prodigy) Timing

Can I play a music app like pandora in the backround while the app is running?

Climber26 wrote:Can I play a music app like pandora in the backround while the app is running?

Some years ago I tried to use a interval timer on a watch (I had it set to beep every 5sec, which was when I was on a 10sec on/5off scheme).

It didn't work well for me. I'd find that if I needed to chalk between reps, I'd go over on time by the time I'd get chalked and reset my grips. On a 7/3 scheme it's even harder. There are many times when I am good for the first 3-4 reps and then HAVE to chalk or will blow the set by sliding off. I found that I'd cheat the rep by quitting early so I'd have sufficient time to prep for the following rep before the beep.

So I just went to using a $5 wall clock with a second hand. The upside is, it's cheap and the second hand is very loud (bug is a feature in this case), so I can hear the seconds tick off even over music from the other room and when my eyes are closed or head is tilted back or down.

That way if I go slightly over on either the hang or the rest, it doesn't compromise the timing for the remainder of the set or workout. For me, its more important to execute the reps well (and sometimes that requires going 4 sec instead of 3 to get chalked, reset, etc) than to hit the timing exactly right.

I do like the electronics for intervals on the bike and that does looks like a nice app. They're just not for me personally when hangboarding...call me a luddite I guess.

One more question. Can I make multiple training programs. Like hangboard #1, hangboard #2, training laps. Etc. if so I may just have to buy this app. Time is lost having to reset my app timer now for set.

Climber26 wrote:One more question. Can I make multiple training programs. Like hangboard #1, hangboard #2, training laps. Etc. if so I may just have to buy this app. Time is lost having to reset my app timer now for set.

Mono- So anywhere the hangboard routines mention narrow pinch in TRCTM it actually means medi pinch? Example: the 7th exercise of the advanced hangboard workout on page 122 of TRCTM should read medium pinch? I was just wondering about that yesterday! Great job on everything BTW!!!

Nice! Thanks for the review Josh Janes and thanks for the quick respones Alvoro Arnal. I did download the demo version awhile back just wasn't sure about dropping a five on the full app. Thanks again and happy training!! Cheers!

Josh Janes wrote:...Question/comment about the teeny-tiny crimp (does it have a name?):

I love that small pinch. I hate the little crimp, even after sanding the razor edge it came with.

FYI Beastmaker has an app. called the Beastmaker trainer for free...Not as complex as what Josh has but it lets you put in the reps, rest, hang time, and time between sets

Josh Janes wrote:No comments on the pinches (I use the medium and am fine with it for now - it goes last in my routine as it's the least important hold to me). Question/comment about the teeny-tiny crimp (does it have a name?): I find that between reps I have more success if I keep my fingers in contact with and engaged with the hold (merely putting my feet down). My theory is that once I allow the blood to flow back into my fingertips - which happens the moment I take my fingers off this hold - the pain and sweat and weakness begins. Anyone else discover this? Another question: Is there a proper "form" for two finger pockets? In the case of I/M pockets, sometimes I fold my thumb across my ring finger (like I'm making a peace sign) and it feels fine, but other times I feel strain in my tendons and prefer to keep my thumb open (extended). Same for the M/R pockets.

Greg DeMatteo wrote:Now I need to figure out how to mount my phone. Errr...hang my phone.

REI. Also has a version of that where you can plug the phone headphone jack into it and it has a sealed out port so if you have speakers you want to use.

Set this up yesterday in ~45 min (15 was spent in the wrong template -__-)

Worked like a charm though, perhaps too well...Now I need to setup my girlfriend's phone...

Edit:

YES you CAN use pandora while using this app

Has anyone found a mountable timer that they really like for hangboard workouts? The Seconds Pro app looks cool, but I'd rather just have a dedicated timer mounted to the hangboard. I was thinking that one of the fitness interval timers might be nice, like the Everlast one:
amazon.com/Everlast-Interva…

i just use a simple, cheap digital oven timer from target. i think it was 4 bucks or so. works great. mono turned me on to that (i was looking at much more expensive options).

i use velcro tape (prickly side on wall, fuzzy side on timer). works great.

Yeah, I used the kitchen time for years. Worked fine. I downloaded this app just to see during my last str phase. Holy Crap! Best couple Bucks I've spent in years. Thanks josh. Now I'm not kicking old manky biners off my platform any more to keep track of reps.

I'm using a free Android app called runtastic timer. It doesn't tell me my current hang but it does do reps and rests, and long rests between sets. Generic tabata timer but it works well and simply.

Does anyone know how to turn off the 3-second countdown? There's way too many beeps for me.

On the seconds pro app? Look in the settings and set it to beep once (short or long beeps).