Bolting boulder problems

My friends and I are looking to bolt some 15ft. boulder problems in NE Ohio just to maximize safety, especially for those without crash pads. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions i.e. what kind of bolts I should use, tools I need, etc.

Again, we're just looking to put 1-2 bolts in and treat it like a short sport route. Thank you for any advice.

-Chaz Sochen

I will be everyone to the punch and just say it.

DONT

1) by the time you by bolts, a drill and everything else you might need, you would have been able to afford a bouldering pad or 3.
2) you said it yourself, its a boulder problem, ergo, not a sport route.
3) If you don't know how to bolt and don't have anyone to actually teach you, you shouldn't bolt.
4) even with a bolt or two, bouldering the route with a pad would most likely be safer.

I am not trying to be harsh, but this is a very bad idea and if you follow through you will see shortly there after why. you could always just TR the problems if you are really concerned for safety, but there is no reason to ever consider bolting those pebbles.

Chaz,

You are legend. Bolt away! Hahahahaha. Is this Kelly? If so I applaud your efforts, and I'm sure many others do as well. Bringing back the old school. Ha.

Dude, bolt something over 30 ft. Leave the low heights to the hipsters. Are you that desperate? Go clean up some crags! You won't even get a pump on a 15 footer! The rap chains will be hanging down half way up the route.

Gave me a pretty good laugh, thanks.

Not sure if this is actually serious... but just in case...

If you bolt a 15 foot route, even with an excellent belay, you'll likely deck. I am sure you'll see a increase in climbing related injuries in this area if you bolt these boulder problems. Plus your probably going to piss a ton of people off.

Just don't do it..

You csught 6 in 1 hour. Congratulations.

I'm a fan of bolted sport routes, but this seems like a bad idea. Buy a crash pad and just boulder it since it is a boulder problem. If anything maybe a set of bolts to set up a top rope anchor on top of the boulder but I wouldn't for anyting under 20 feet.

I always like to install bolts on boulder problems. That way I have something to use as a pulley system so I can move my pad while I'm doing the route.

This has to be the best trollin' I've seen in a while...or else someone that just doesn't get it!!!

Whatever you do, be sure to paint the hangers brightly in different colors. You want to make sure everyone sitting around below the problem can see them. You may also want to leave draws hanging as a courtesy to the next 'climber' - it sucks to have to bring all your own gear.

The midgets may come!

Man, bolting in NE Ohio? That'd get you dick whipped in Boulder, but who cares where you're at. Needless to say you'd be better of with a pad, but I'm sure you boys got it locked down.

clearly you need this

bolt gun

bolt

Max Forbes wrote:Not sure if this is actually serious... but just in case... If you bolt a 15 foot route, even with an excellent belay, you'll likely deck. I am sure you'll see a increase in climbing related injuries in this area if you bolt these boulder problems. Plus your probably going to piss a ton of people off. Just don't do it..

Besides what everyone else said..^^ this. Obviously you'll double the distance of the fall plus with rope stretch. Alot of climbers don't get you can still deck even from up high on a climb.

The only option is a anchor on top for a TR, but leave it as is for those that have the sack for highballs or start saving your money and get a pad.

We should so have a "like" button.

Bolt a 15 ft boulder problem? I'm sure many of us have done run outs on much worse. (Whitehorse Ledge, some ole' school shizznit.) Why are we so hellbent on the illusion of "making things safer" these days? It's amazing most of us survived childhood and early adulthood.

"H" wrote:Why are we so hellbent on the illusion of "making things safer" these days?

Because we live in a litigious culture of risk adverse individuals...

Most first bolts in my state are higher than 15ft.

"H" wrote:Why are we so hellbent on the illusion of "making things safer" these days?

'Cos it's hard to evaluate risk. It is not easy to tell when we are "safe enough". Is a sketchy boulder problem with a good pad any more dangerous than driving in a car? I don't know. Do you?

As a result we devote more energy to mitigating risk that is scary, rather than risk that is actually risky/dangerous.

It's because climbing has now been integrated into contemporary pop-suburban culture as just another risk-free entertainment option. You know, go climbing or go to the mall - some days it's just a toss up.

Healyje wrote:It's because climbing has now been integrated into contemporary pop-suburban culture as just another risk-free entertainment option. You know, go climbing or go to the mall - some days it's just a toss up.

It's all good as long as you go-pro it.